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Mr. Fart,
My strong preference were to be for a resin option. If I obtained a vac formed body, I would either then ship it to a friend to cast in resin from it (just for me to use; I would buy the same number of vac forms as I would make in resin), or try myself to add some coating underneath to equalize the weight with the rest of the field of hard plastic or resin cars(Bruce at Pattos used to sell such a product, but does no more, and my bottle I'm sure has degraded over the decades, so if any of you have successfully done such a hardbody-equivalent undercoating to a vac form body, I would love to here your success stories of such products; for example, I swear by Australian INOX for braid here, and import it for my use). Neither option is preferred, but if vac forms of some of my missing bodies is all you can do, then I would still be very grateful. Please put me down as an interested party, and let me know (if you pm me here, just let me know in the thread) the body style and type of bodies (resin or vac form), when they would be available, their price (including shipping to the US) and how to pay you.
bry3500, I routinely raid the horn of plenty of Mr. Bruce ("Patto") over the last twenty years (decals, bodies and running gear), including some vac formed Aussie bodies of his when I had no other option, but I have tried to grandfather them out as redundant as I have found hard bodies of the body style with Australian casters or elsewhere (ex. I bought a stockpile of Monaro HQs from him to then backcast in resin to make them the proper weight, but the resin melted the bodies (the friend who did it for me said), or it preserved the warped orientation of the original vac formed body). I was not backcasting them for me to resell, but just taking the number of vac forms I bought to make an identical number for my personal use in the proper weight. I would much prefer original hardbodies in plastic or resin if at all possible.
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help me out.
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