View Full Version : BUILD THREAD For 1964 Falcon Sprint to Monte Carlo Rallye FIA spec'
Paul B
02-13-2017, 09:19 AM
It all started looking at cool cars on the net, as you all do. and what caught my eye was this 1964 Falcon Sprint, first glance it looked pretty rough. But upon looking further it had very little rust, but the usual fair share of 50+ years of use, love and abuse.
So I bought it! .. Just like that.
I always liked the 63-64 muscle era, very raw and a very developing time for high performance cars.
These Falcons designed in the late 50s, the first 1960 Falcon rolled off the assembly line. in late 1959!
They were mass produced and were originally intended to have a 6 cylinder engine as a low cost entry for Mum Dad and the kids.
Things changed by 1964 and the big 3 (Ford, Mopar, GM) performance programs were in full swing. By then Ford had stuffed a 260ci V8 into the Falcon but the 64 Mercurys had 289s also and many with the 289 K hipo engine. There were also a lot of Fairlanes built with 289 K engines. Particularly in Canada where the right hand drive export cars came from, Many were 289K hipo engines and many came to NZ.
So in 1964, 8 Falcon Rallye Sprints were entered into the Monte Carlo Rally in full race trim courtesy of Holman Moody, who prepared 15 cars for Ford, 14 cars went to Alan Mann Racing in the UK to be further rally prepared, managed & raced at the Monte Carlo Rally. (H-M built 15 cars in total.)
1 Falcon was raced at Daytona together with the prototype 427 Fairlane in 1964. A number of 1964 cars including some Mercurys also went to compete in the East African rally. Ford offered a Regular Production Option (RPO) for the Falcon for 1964 to comply with the minimum of 1000 vehicles were produced.
At the same time in the USA Ford decided to stuff the 1964 Falcon with 425hp 427 Hi Riser big block and 4 speed and these were drag raced as AFX race cars and hugely competitive at the time for a 1250kg (2755lb) car, and very much lighter in drag trim.
To try to get the weight down close to the FIA 1250 homologated weight of 980kg, (they never got there but would have been best guess circa 1150kg) Holman Moody made a lot of changes for the 1964 Falcon Rallye Sprint for Monte Carlo Rallye: Fiberglass body panels, aluminum bumpers, 4 pot disc brakes, stiffer & lower suspension, adjustable koni shocks, quicker steering, close ratio T10 4 speed gearbox, Stump pulling 4.51 ratio 9 inch limited slip diff. The 289K engine was reworked with a twin 4 barrel Carter AFB Carburetors, 12.1 compression forged TRW Pistons (Fuel had lead in those days!) Modified heads, factory exhaust headers for better flow, 15 inch rims and skinny cross bias radial (Dunlop) tyres!, The factory dual point distributors (Rare C2FF-12127 with locked Vac adv) were running 38 degrees of maximum advance and all this meant about 340hp+ for the competition engines at the time. A quick car for 1964. Holman Moody made many other modifications to make the car perform well, as well as Alan Mann Racing.
So with all that, I bought this old dead looking 1964 car back to my nice warm garage as a rolling car needing more than a bit of TLC.
I found out the car sat in the desert for years somewhere in California and lucky as it was well preserved with about 7kg of California desert and 3 mouse nests, a dozen spider webs (All dead after fumigation)and an ash tray full of US coins.
So I started to strip it and decided to do this build.
Here is a pic of the car on day 141966
Paul B
02-13-2017, 09:31 AM
So, as you do when you strip car, photograph everything, and put each lot of parts in marked containers and box things like a door go all together, so a year or 2 down the track your grey hair (or the lack of it) does not get the better of you and you can figure out how it all goes back together.
RUST- who invented that, it is the most time consuming part of the rebuild apart from preparing for paint.
So before you start the steel repairs you need a Vernier Gauge and measure the thickness of the original steel to be sure you are replacing with the correct thickness these cars are mostly 1mm thick (with non chassis repairs).
Cut out the affected area and check what is left is thick enough to weld. Next make a paper pattern of the repair, place a sheet of paper over the cut out area and ensure it sits the same as the original steel sat. Then hold carefully in place and press-rub the paper around the outer edge cut you made all the way around. This will give you an exact pattern of the area you want to repair, cut it out exactly on the rub line. lay it on your new sheet steel and mark around with a ballpoint pen, then cut the steel slightly inside the line. this should almost fit, bend into shape and try to fit, use an angle grinder to trim small amounts off in order to press fit the new panel into place. when it press fits perfectly (if it's too small, throw it away an start again) and buts in place, then use welding magnets to hold in place, check that the shape is exactly the same as original, tack 1 corner at a time ensuring perfect flatness between old an new surfaces. Keep tacking in with your Mig or Tig then start welding 2 cm pieces at a time, stop quickly and hammer and dolly the weld, allow to cool and continue till finished. You will then need to grind the residual weld down carfully first use a grider disc then a sander disc JOB DONE
If you have spot welds Google "Plug welding". IMPORTANT Measure the distance of the original spot welds and ensure the correct number and distance between each spot weld is placed as OEM build. Use an angle grinder to carefully flatten down the top plug weld, then use a grinding tip to very lightly plenish the area, Etch prime. The replacement plug weld is done, this will ensure the car is repaired as originally designed.
41967
Repair to rear left floor, You can see 5 plug welds
41968
Repair to left front floor, the plug welds have not yet been flattened or plenished
41969
Replace right rear lower fender and under water drainage panels, had to hand make these.
41970
Spgeti
02-13-2017, 11:13 PM
Great project Paul and I look forward to watching the progress. Regards, Bruce Dyer
Steve Holmes
02-14-2017, 12:20 AM
Awesome thread Paul, I'm really looking forward to this one, and seeing your car come to life. I've had a long interest in the FIA Appendix K Falcon Sprints, ever since I lived in the UK in the early 1990s and saw them racing at a historic event at Silverstone.
Classic & Sportscar magazine writer Julian Balme has owned an FIA Falcon Sprint for many, many years. I saw the car at Silverstone in 1994, and even then he'd owned it for a long time. He writes updates about the car in the 'Our Classics' section of the mag which I always find interesting.
41984
The FIA granted these cars an amazing 980kg racing weight for the 1964 Monte Carlo Rally, which means this is their homologation weight now in historic racing. To help try and achieve that weight the FIA allowed the cars to be fitted with fibreglass or alloy front fenders, hood, boot lid, and doors. Plus bumpers, I think? I don't think anyone has ever got a Falcon Sprint down to that weight, but given they share the same mechanicals as a Mustang, and are significantly lighter, are formidable in the popular pre-1966 Group 2 Historic Touring Car category throughout the UK and Europe.
Keep up the good work Paul.
Spgeti
02-14-2017, 12:37 AM
The bumpers are either aluminium or steel Steve. Fibreglass is not accepted in some classes of historic racing.
Heartbeat
02-14-2017, 03:38 AM
41990
Very nice car Paul. I have just added one to my garage but just a Futura. Love the lines and very different from my English Fords
Paul B
02-14-2017, 04:41 AM
Thanks very much Guys for the positive replies.
Very nice Futura in Napier! I have some spares if you need help with anything.
If my car comes up as nice as Julian Balme's car I will be stoked... workin on it.
Correct, the FIA was for steel or aluminium bumpers. I think 980kg is wishful thinking for me, my last estimate was 1160kg
I heard of an EH Holden that was around 980kg
Cheers
Paul B
02-14-2017, 04:47 AM
So with all of the welding completed, its hammer and dolly time to go over each panel at a time and old school style, panel beat out and dents and low spots, the secret is not to bash to hard or too long or the metal will stretch. Its a bit of an art working metal, the good thing about this era of car the steel is not medium/high tensile so its relatively easy to work. After all that I called Warren at Metal Immersions Ltd and he is an absolute expert in acid dipping cars or any metal for that fact. He also has done some metal blasting and powder coating for me. The car came out fantastic thanks to Warren.
41993
41994
41995
41996
41997
What a difference having nice clean steel to work with. It was off to the paint shop for Polyurethane epoxy etch primer.
Roger Dowding
02-14-2017, 07:53 AM
Thanks very much Guys for the positive replies.
Very nice Futura in Napier! I have some spares if you need help with anything.
If my car comes up as nice as Julian Balme's car I will be stoked... workin on it.
Correct, the FIA was for steel or aluminium bumpers. I think 980kg is wishful thinking for me, my last estimate was 1160kg
I heard of an EH Holden the was around 980kg
Cheers
Paul B, great to see, those mid 60's Falcons were great and restoring another one, excellent, Gentleman Jim Richards runs one here in Australia in the Historic Muscle Cars series.
Keep up the good work !
Roger D.
Paul B
02-14-2017, 09:32 AM
Thanks Roger,
All the good bits will follow soon, engine, brakes, suspension & interior.
I've seen Gentleman Jims Falcon its very cool.
Cheers
Paul B
02-14-2017, 09:47 AM
The big thing about dipping a car is getting inside all of the sub frames coated. So I made a small tube sprayer and ran it inside every sub frame A pillar and C pillar etc.and zinc painted inside the lot, makes a mess but did the job.
So the old girl came back from the paint shop and so it prepping for paint now. The next stop is the scaffolding shop for a roll cage.
42008
There was one more small rust hole in the boot floor to repair
42009
Welded up 50 years of holes drilled in the floors - the OEM original holes were left
42010
42011
Oldfart
02-14-2017, 08:38 PM
Massive work, thanks for sharing.
Spgeti
02-14-2017, 10:30 PM
Hi Paul, just make sure that your cage allows for clearance for all factory door handles, winders and pulls to still be able to function as orginally designed. Cheers, Bruce D
Paul B
02-15-2017, 01:39 AM
Thanks Bruce, good advice, its easy to forget those things.
I will be fitting the all the seats, door armrests etc, hood bows, front screen trim and sun visors. Just to make sure. Here is a look at the revised draft plan for the scaffolding:
Spgeti
02-15-2017, 02:17 AM
Your roll cage will need to be built to MSNZ regulations and you are best to use a recommended cage builder who is conversant with these requirements.
What is used overseas does not nessesary meet these requirements.
If in doubt give one of the Technical guys at MSNZ a call.
Cheers
Bruce
Oldfart
02-15-2017, 04:30 AM
Bruce is correct. The FIA homologated cage which I had in a car of mine, and brand new SMP with papers, did not meet MSNZ in a number of places. Let's not restart the cage discussion :)
Paul B
02-15-2017, 05:46 AM
Thanks Guys, for sure that is happening, Have been taking good advise from all and many including MSNZ, I appreciate the help from all. . The FIA Seamless steel tube is not readily available in NZ . So it will be a MSNZ cage. But I am going to build a bolt in cage.
Once I finalise the design plan I will take it in to MSNZ for approval prior to the build.
I think the phrase here will be "measure twice and cut once"
Cheers
Paul
Paul B
02-15-2017, 06:37 AM
So I started rebuilding the seats, when the car was in the paint shop.The front buckets were absolutely gone, the usual broken springs, perished foam squabs, rotten hessian etc. broken seat slider mounts.
This is fairly typical of what you will see with the moulded foam squab when rebuilding seat, usually the seat base goes first and the back a bit later, new foam is now being remanufactured. Start by removing all side bolts and take the back off the base. Remove all the hog rings under the base (don't forget the hog rings that hold the piping down about 100mm on 3 sides) then remove the upholstery and foam.
42015
Once you remove the foam, you will see the hessian (rotten) with 0.9mm spring wire at 25mm widths attached. These need rebuilding.
42016
Next the broken springs will need replacing, frames repaired and welding any broken parts of the frame or spring retaining outers, with spring wire repairs, try to forge the weld with a hammer & dolly while its bright red hot and this will work much better with the spring wire... not ideal. the zig zag springs are best to replace, new ones they can be hand made at some companies.
42017
It is important to realign the springs. assemble the frame after its stripped, and check the distance on the seat frame sides with the back lower hinge arms when the back is pushed forward. There should be clearance of about 15mm on each side.
42018
Then clean, de-rust, and repaint the frames, and start reassembling in the order it came off, using new hog rings and hog ring pliers. the black hessian has been replaced with new 0.9mm spring wire, hog ring this into place, then put new felt around the same areas it came off, using the old stuff as patterns.
42019
Mark the centre of the frame, foam squab & new upholstery front to back, Place the new foam squab on top of this, and fix centred into place.
Then centre the upholstery, the really hard part is re hog ringing the seat centre piping down on to the steel spring steel. The pull the covers over, check the centre and hog ring into place
42020
Paul B
02-15-2017, 07:14 AM
Continued:
42022
The back seats are easier to do and the same principle as the bucket seats
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Upholstery is not easy at all, so if you have not done it before then it may be better going to a Car trimmer
Paul B
02-16-2017, 08:48 AM
I did the fitting of the engine bay, Oil cooler and remote AC oil filter, It was very hard to find the right oil cooler and the fit was tight but it ended up fine. I needed to make a bracket, that also acts as reinforcing and then cut the square cooling hole for the oil cooler. Originally the hole had a grating screwed on the front to protect the cooler from debris which was painted black so I made that also.
I am also looking for a left side top inlet, right side lower outlet Griffin radiator.
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The twin 4 barrel manifold and carter carbs (2 x 500cfm!) were also difficult to get and expensive, but a must have. I personally think these engines were over carbed and would perform better with around 750cfm. They are easy to re-jet and good Jet kits are available.
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khyndart in CA
02-16-2017, 03:21 PM
Paul,
This is absolutely brilliant what you are doing and sharing with us. I have restoration books that are no where as good as what you are providing.
So I just want to thank you so much and truly appreciate your efforts and time and the before and after photos are a testimony of a job very well done.
Cheers,
Ken Hyndman
kiwi285
02-16-2017, 07:54 PM
Always liked these cars and it is great to see one being prepared for the HMC class. The Falcon Sprint that Jim Richards races in Australia is a really neat looking machine. Your explanations and photos of the work and how to go about it are really appreciated and I am sure will provide help to many car builders.
Keep the photos coming and keep us up to date with progress.
I will add it to my list of HMC / HSC cars that are currently racing or are being built up.
Paul B
02-17-2017, 08:44 AM
The 289 is a great small block, the one issue is the breathing of the heads and smallish valve sizes.
The engine would really benefit exhaust porting and some mild inlet porting and port matching, Larger valves and some chamber de-shrouding to improve flow.
The other issue is the conrod bolts are fairly small as they were with many engines of this vintage and a new set of forged H or I beam cap screw rods would be a great asset.
The oiling systems always need work, to improve oil pressure and getting good oil pressure the back of the block #4 and #8 cylinders.
I started the engine build, this will be built to 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye spec' and originally built at Holman Moody, The 289 engine they developed (using a K 289 Hi-po engine as a base) had much more power than the factory K series engine. It had Carter 2 x 4 bbl Carburetors, Modified heads, larger valves, 12:1 compression pistons, modified C2FF-12127 Distributor (very rare twin point with blocked vacuum advance, used on some R Cobras). I believe they used the original K series cam shaft but with different valve train components, The engine also had a remote oil cooler and winged 7 ltr sump.
I just couldn't hold back, I had to see what it would look like built. So I loosely fitted it all together to see how it will look.
I will finish the build when the car goes in for the roll cage.
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The cars were actually raced with factory cast Iron headers (thanks to Bill Meek for taking the time to go to the UK and interview Alan Mann to find out the facts). The "on file" FIA homologation #1250 showed some upswept headers, also optioned for cast iron.
42064
Paul B
02-17-2017, 08:55 AM
Hi Ken
Thank you for your kind words. I am really enjoying the build immensely and its great to get some awesome feedback. I had a lot of help with parts from Al Aiello from the Falcon club in USA. Al was fantastic in locating some difficult parts for me. He is really a great guy.
Kind regards
Paul
Paul B
02-17-2017, 09:04 AM
Always liked these cars and it is great to see one being prepared for the HMC class. The Falcon Sprint that Jim Richards races in Australia is a really neat looking machine. Your explanations and photos of the work and how to go about it are really appreciated and I am sure will provide help to many car builders.
Keep the photos coming and keep us up to date with progress.
I will add it to my list of HMC / HSC cars that are currently racing or are being built up.
Thanks very much for the positive feed back, I am "keen as carrots" to get this done, It would be great to meet everyone. I might come up to the next meeting, but I find it hard to watch cars racing as I just want to get out amongst it!
Cheers
Paul
Spgeti
02-17-2017, 07:45 PM
Our next meeting is HRC Legends at Hampton Downs at the end of March. You are welcome to come and join us and it is not all racing but also a lot of social chatting and meeting people. I will be going and you are welcome to come along. Cheers, Bruce
Paul B
02-18-2017, 07:20 AM
Thanks Bruce,
That sounds great. I see on the HRC news letter 25 and 26 March.
I might drive up on Friday.
Cheers
Paul B
02-18-2017, 08:51 AM
Massive work, thanks for sharing.
Yes its a big job, but really enjoying it. Have your still got your Buckler, they are a very cool shape.
Cheers
Paul
Steve Holmes
02-23-2017, 06:23 AM
41990
Very nice car Paul. I have just added one to my garage but just a Futura. Love the lines and very different from my English Fords
Wow, this is neat! Not many of these cars in NZ.
Oldfart
02-24-2017, 06:48 AM
Yes its a big job, but really enjoying it. Have your still got your Buckler, they are a very cool shape.
Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul, the Buckler I had in nz now in the Hutt, but I have another now I am living in the UK. Your work leaves me way back under a shady tree.
Paul B
02-24-2017, 08:30 PM
I like Bucklers and a lot of forgotten fiberglass for that fact, there have been so many interesting cars made over the years.
I will have some more build posts coming after the car gets the roll cage in. Enjoy that shady Tree!
Cheers for your reply
Paul B
03-05-2017, 07:02 AM
I rebuilt the steering box, they all need rebuilding after 50 years. You never know what you will find until you open it up. First remove the Pitman arm with a pitman arm puller tool. Hard to remove, keep a lot of pressure on while light side taps and it will pop off. Then loosen the sector shaft nut and turn the worm screw in a couple of easy turns, never force any thing on a steering box. Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the sector shaft plate, slide the plate toward the oil filler. it will disengage from the sector shaft. Then you can pull out the sector shaft, be careful of the bearing surfaces down the shaft. Check the gears for wear and damage. looking down the shaft hole you will see 2 needle roller bearing carriers and at the bottom an oil seal. I usually replace these all (1-1/8" shaft on the sprint, Mustangs are 1 inch), they tap out very easily be careful of the internal surfaces. you can tap or press them back in using a large socket or the like.
Use an impact screwdriver & hammer to loosen the large ring on the steering shaft, the unscrew the housing cap. you can then remove the whole shaft with the worm intact. inspect the upper and lower bearing races and inserts. More than likely the Seat inserts will be pitted and there may be damage to the bearing race, replace these, again they tap out fairly easily.
If you choose to remove all the ball bearings from the worm shaft...! there are 62 bearings and it is tricky to get back together. You must load the centre of the worm and don't move it while reloading it. Check all the worm surfaces for pitting. Once it is all degreased, washed, CRC or WD40 and dried clean you can reassemble with some moly grease on all the bearing surfaces. I also grease pack the sector shaft bearings down to the seal. Center the worm on the steering shaft, finger tighten all the adjuster rings and worm screw with lock nut so there is zero lash, but no drag. once the steering box is in you will need to set preload, You need a lb scale to pull the steering wheel it should take about (Ford manual says Maximum 4.5 Ft lbs) 3-4lb to turn the steering wheel (12inches from the center of the wheel) use the sector shaft screw to tighten/loosen in VERY SMALL INCREMENTS or you will damage the steering box. Also check end play at the end of the pitman arm, you need zero lash again, if it has some movement, Recheck Preload again. Screw the sector shaft adjuster screw inwards to tighten, it is best to back it off so you feel loose lash then slowly tighten so only just removes all lash, caution with this as over adjustment tightening will cause binding of the sector shaft and worm gear, then damage to the gears with excessive wear.
42343
These are the old parts that were replaced
42344
I have the parts now that Holman moody used to quicken the steering from 19:1 to 16:1
Plus a new sector shaft, a big thanks to Dale!
Removing the Pitman arm bolt, needs a lot of leverage, and good hold on pitman arm
Removing pitman arm, a lot of pressure and patients
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Reassembly
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Heartbeat
03-06-2017, 08:02 PM
Nice Paul, I was thinking about pulling mine down but have taken the play out of it. Like your work.
Stuart McC
Steve Holmes
03-06-2017, 11:53 PM
This is such an awesome build thread Paul. I'm really enjoying it. Because you're building the car to FIA rules, you can't just go purchase a bunch of shiny new off-the-shelf parts. You have to research the rules, find out what is allowed, and also research what racers did in period to make these cars perform. Its educational in every way and really enjoyable to follow.
Paul B
03-10-2017, 10:24 PM
Hi Stuart,
Thanks for your reply, When taking the play out of the sector shaft/ball nut, using the worm screw& lock nut on the top of the steering box. there need to be some end play from the base of the worm screw inside the box, to the sector shaft so you don't have binding and premature wear of your Steering box. Refer to factory manual sector shaft end play. Hope this helps.
Cheers Paul
Paul B
03-10-2017, 10:26 PM
This is such an awesome build thread Paul. I'm really enjoying it. Because you're building the car to FIA rules, you can't just go purchase a bunch of shiny new off-the-shelf parts. You have to research the rules, find out what is allowed, and also research what racers did in period to make these cars perform. Its educational in every way and really enjoyable to follow.
Thanks Steve, Yes its a mission finding the right parts, for sure, getting there ... slowly
Cheers
Paul B
03-10-2017, 10:36 PM
Paul B, great to see, those mid 60's Falcons were great and restoring another one, excellent, Gentleman Jim Richards runs one here in Australia in the Historic Muscle Cars series.
Keep up the good work !
Roger D.
Hi Rodger
This is such great viewing, Jims Falcon 5th on the start grid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zf-FaC5Hz9U
Cheers, Paul
Paul B
03-30-2017, 10:20 AM
So after some excellent advice regarding roll cages (work still in progress) I fitted up the whole interior so as the roll cage will fit nicely, although likely most or some of the interior will sit at home while the car is on the track.
There is just enough room between the seats and door panels to run a 50mm (2inch) block through to accommodate the roll cage side bar, missing the handles, winders etc.
Also fitted up the sun visors, A pillar trim and hood lining bows just to be sure... Yes, I will run hood lining, all 800gms of it. The Falcon Rallye Sprint had touring seats that were lighter and better fitting. I will be installing these later. In 1964 they had no roll cages back then (common practice) so I will need to work a rear seat back into fit around the roll cage back stays.
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Paul B
03-30-2017, 10:25 AM
While I have been waiting some more parts have arrived... Christmas again! so here are the 1964 Kelsey Hays 4 pot disc brakes that these were fitted with and 11inch rotors. (some Falcons had Girling calipers fitted.
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Also after a massive amount of research I discovered what the inline booster was
And this is what I have now
42901
The rear drum brakes are something else, 9 pads on each side, Mainly for cooling, a H-M modification. I figured this out after reading the FIA homologation and researching Holman Moody Nascar program. After reading some period car review magazine articles I found out the Falcons had some rear brake lock up issues and they sorted it by adjusting/ backing off the rear shoe adjustment.
So I am going to have a crack at that ... more to come
Steve Holmes
03-31-2017, 06:15 AM
This thread just gets better and better. How much of the interior will you use Paul?
Paul B
03-31-2017, 06:44 AM
This thread just gets better and better. How much of the interior will you use Paul?
Hi Steve,
Thanks for that, The plan is to run most of the trim... only because it looks cool, the roll cage fitment will Not allow a back upright seat. so I will need to fab one up that will fit around the cage and get it covered in Original trim, Welcome anyone's thoughts?
I don't think the extra weight will matter too much with 1964 Spec' car, the car will have clear limitations compared to the cars from the late 1960s and 1970s. but its all about originality for me.
I am keen on building the original race seat (just for originality viewing) and extra dash instrumentation at some stage
42906
Note the different steering wheels in each of the cars and different instrumentation
42907
I have noticed each car was a little different in small ways, 1 car also had a 4 bbl carb set up, and 1 car was said to be a hot 6 cyl, (to combat the class that Chryslers Valiant entered) this was driven by Denise McCluggage - Anne Hall-#204? , Below is an earlier Falcon with the Hot 6 that Holman Moody built, Assume this would be very similar for the #204 car - I cant find any paperwork to support this
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Spgeti
03-31-2017, 06:53 AM
Hi Paul, that sounds really cool. Race seat will need to be a MSNZ reconised brand and side trim will still need to be installed under today's requirements. Back seat removal is ok but the rear bulkhead will need to be sealed with no holes into the boot.
Carpets can be removed. But again check with MSNZ first.
This is a great build and like Steve I am really enjoying it.
Cheers
Bruce
Paul B
03-31-2017, 07:45 AM
Thanks for the feedback Bruce, really nice to get some positive and good advice.
Then its the side trim and carpet in, I will fabricate some nice aluminium panels to seal up the rear bulkhead.
I will look very hard into the seats, I would really like to have something that looks period correct
Spgeti
03-31-2017, 08:00 AM
Thanks for the feedback Bruce, really nice to get some positive and good advice.
Then its the side trim and carpet in, I will fabricate some nice aluminium panels to seal up the rear bulkhead.
I will look very hard into the seats, I would really like to have something that looks period correct
Talk to Terry or Mike re the seat at MSNZ. I could not run an early Autosport race seat in my Alfa due to it's Schedule A classification.
It was perfect for the period so I run it as my passenger seat as having a half cage I can not carry passengers.
Paul B
03-31-2017, 09:53 AM
Thanks Bruce, I will do that
Those Alfas are very cool cars, we like them a lot.
Cheers
Paul B
03-31-2017, 10:02 AM
The Falcon Sprint had a lot of steering work done to it from Holman Moody, The OEM steering box at 19:1 didn't cut it so Holman Moody quickened the steering ratio to 16:1 which equates to 3.25 turns as on the #1250 FIA homologation.
65334
Ford part number tag as attached C4HM 35041 - the HM designates a Holman Moody part
65335
The 64 Falcons also had extra heavy duty spindles fitted (1964 V8 models had larger tie rod holes than Mustangs). Many people say the 15 cars built used 64/5 Lincoln spindles, but Holman Moody also had special HD Ford built spindles that looked very similar dimensionally to Lincoln/ T Bird/ Galaxie, so best guess is that these may have been used.
It was a mission and a half to figure this all out but I got it after about 6 months!
Together with a smaller Grant steering wheel (that only some cars had, the G Hill #201 car had factory sprint steering wheel) all helped the Sprint get around the bends.
Steve Holmes
04-01-2017, 10:15 PM
I love that you're researching how these cars were modified in period by H-M and then building your car as close as you possibly can to what they did. This is a neat build, and very true to the original cars. Its all these little details that make the difference.
You'll really get to experience just what the drivers experienced in period when they raced these cars, and not a modernized and improved version of.
Paul B
04-02-2017, 07:31 PM
Thanks Steve,
The research side of it has been really interesting, It will be an experience to race this compared to My Honda Integra Type R race car. But that's all part of the fun.
Interestingly enough after doing all this research, I have found that the 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye Falcon Sprints now seem more like they were a prototype for the Shelby GT350 Mustangs, so much of the setup is the same. Obviously, cant say for sure, but its looking like a very large coincidence.
Galaxie 9inch LSDiff
close ratio T10
K series engine with mods to +300hp
Quicker steering
Stiffer front & rear springs, adjustable shocks
Front Kelsey hays 4 pot disc brakes
etc
I suppose that's how it worked, the Ford race program is what the future performance road cars were based on.
Steve Holmes
04-03-2017, 06:34 AM
Thanks Steve,
The research side of it has been really interesting, It will be an experience to race this compared to My Honda Integra Type R race car. But that's all part of the fun.
Interestingly enough after doing all this research, I have found that the 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye Falcon Sprints now seem more like they were a prototype for the Shelby GT350 Mustangs, so much of the setup is the same. Obviously, cant say for sure, but its looking like a very large coincidence.
Galaxie 9inch LSDiff
close ratio T10
K series engine with mods to +300hp
longer steering pitman& idler arms
Stiffer front & rear springs, adjustable shocks
Front Kelsey hays 4 pot disc brakes
etc
I suppose that's how it worked, the Ford race program is what the future performance road cars were based on.
I think a lot of that stuff carried over to the A/Sedan and Trans-Am Mustangs also Paul. It was an evolution, with Ford wanting to promote the new Mustang when it first appeared, so the parts carried across. Of course, in the UK under Group 5 touring car rules, the amazing light homologation weight of the Falcon Sprint meant it found a new lease of life which continued until the advent of Group 2 rules for 1970. It was a dominant force for many years.
When you get the time, have a read of the story I wrote about the only known existing Holman-Moody 1964 Ford Galaxie Nascar. These cars were allowed far more freedoms than the Falcons contesting the Monte Carlo, but its still really interesting to learn how they adapted such ingenious ideas into the cars to make them fast and reliable. Check it out here: http://www.theroaringseason.com/showthread.php?2190-Article-Candy-Tangerine-Crusher
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Paul B
04-03-2017, 06:59 AM
Thanks Steve
That is one very cool FB Galaxie. I really like the big block FEs I used to collect them! a one stage I had 11, some old racing engines under my basement, a lot of years back. I built a few big blocks they had phenomenal amount of torque. I will have a read,
Cheers
Paul B
04-03-2017, 08:51 AM
I fitted up the external cut off switch, it fit really nicely where the aerial used to live.
Folded up a bracket and foam sealed the ends for water runoff. It will get a weight reduction later to remove excess steel that is not needed
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65331
I used the original body work holes to mount the bracket and spaced it carefully to allow for rain water flow
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I would like to run an older looking more period correct cut off switch, but cant seem to fine one that's weatherproof. If anyone has some suggestion?
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See page 5 - post 88, as I have updated the cut off switch with more period correct cut off. I have also lightened the whole set up that will be in a later post
John McKechnie
04-03-2017, 09:09 AM
Get a long pull cable- Ford bonnet for example.
Attach it to the ignition key, pull handle outside.
That way anyone outside pulling the cable brings the key back to off- that very period, I have it on mine.
Bruce302
04-03-2017, 08:49 PM
There are these available http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Battery-Disconnect-Switch-kill-2post-SPST-kill-cut-off-nascar-nhra-b-/301836332160?hash=item4646d8ec80:g:6jcAAOSwa39UzS6l&vxp=mtr
and if you run another in series inside the car power can be cut from either location.
I fitted up the external cut off switch, it fit really nicely where the aerial used to live.
Folded up a bracket and foam sealed the ends for water runoff
42943
I used the original body work holes to mount the bracket and spaced it carefully to allow for rain water flow
42944
I would like to run an older looking more period correct cut off switch, but cant seem to fine one that's weatherproof. If anyone has some suggestion?
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Paul B
04-04-2017, 07:47 AM
Thanks guys,
I have an old school primary cut off inside the car, the outside cut off is secondary, but I don't dig the plastic.
The pull cable sounds cool ... did you see the rope cable on the floor trapdoor on the H-M Galaxie ... Rope activated! coolness
I will check out ebay, thanks for the link. Do you know if the Pollak switches are waterproof?
Cheers
Paul B
04-05-2017, 07:17 AM
After some help from the right people. I was pointed to the UK where they have a range of historic seats.
I have asked for the FIA approval numbers, so waiting on that.
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This is their classic range for 4 point harness with adjustable head support, which I will likely use providing the FIA numbers check out ok.
These are not FIA homologated, and are the best "period correct" seat I could find. So MSNZ says they are ok to use for "non championship" races, but said also check with race group requirements.
The 6 point roll cage has now all been mostly sorted out and booked for the build
Oldfart
04-05-2017, 02:09 PM
Paul, if you need a hand with shipping let me know, and anybody else for that matter. I am putting a few peoples things together for shipping in the near future. I am in the Midlands and can collect if needs be. In some cases this may mean paying VAT though.
Fantastic thread Paul. Does this mean you had 11 race prepped FE's ? 427;s 428's 390's ?
Paul B
04-06-2017, 08:53 AM
Fantastic thread Paul. Does this mean you had 11 race prepped FE's ? 427;s 428's 390's ?
Most of the FEs I had were in need of rebuilds, some I built. It was a long time ago, they were all sold off in 1989
Some that I had:
406 old race engine with x bolt mains adjustable rockers teflon gudgen buttons, This was a blown engine I bought
428 SCJ that I rebuilt with 2 x 4bbl lowriser (that was a beast of an engine) (Think it went to Auckland into a BB 67-68 Mustang)
427 top oiler x bolt mains, very nicely finished block, 1964 had Shelby alumin' sidewinder inlet (this was in wellington last I Knew)
I built a 410ci with 427 heads big cam 11:1 comp, factory 427 twin point - this thing had unbelievable power. (I sold this to a guy in Levin)
390s etc
I would like to build an early 60s FE big block Historic, I particularly like the 1957 ford custom 2 dr
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On another tangent... It would also be very cool to do a build on the Robbie Francevic's 427 Fairlane
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Paul B
04-06-2017, 08:58 AM
Paul, if you need a hand with shipping let me know, and anybody else for that matter. I am putting a few peoples things together for shipping in the near future. I am in the Midlands and can collect if needs be. In some cases this may mean paying VAT though.
Thanks for that, That would be very cool. I was also thinking of a set of Aluminium bumpers at some stage (they only seem to be available in the UK)
Paul B
04-06-2017, 09:09 AM
Hi Paul, that sounds really cool. Race seat will need to be a MSNZ reconised brand and side trim will still need to be installed under today's requirements. Back seat removal is ok but the rear bulkhead will need to be sealed with no holes into the boot.
Carpets can be removed. But again check with MSNZ first.
This is a great build and like Steve I am really enjoying it.
Cheers
Bruce
Thanks Bruce, I have started work on the rear bulk head, its fairly straight forward, I will post up some progress soon
Spgeti
04-06-2017, 07:22 PM
Thanks guys,
I have an old school primary cut off inside the car, the outside cut off is secondary, but I don't dig the plastic.
The pull cable sounds cool ... did you see the rope cable on the floor trapdoor on the H-M Galaxie ... Rope activated! coolness
I will check out ebay, thanks for the link. Do you know if the Pollak switches are waterproof?e
Cheers
Hi Paul, I see on their website it states that the switches are suitable for marine use and they are moister proof.....does not mean they are waterproof.
Paul B
04-07-2017, 05:34 AM
Hi Paul, I see on their website it states that the switches are suitable for marine use and they are moister proof.....does not mean they are waterproof.
Yes that's right, I emailed the distributor and he replied saying the Pollack switches are not waterproof.
I have a couple of ideas that could do it, If they work I will post them up.
Cheers
Most of the FEs I had were in need of rebuilds, some I built. It was a long time ago, they were all sold off in 1989
Some that I had:
406 old race engine with x bolt mains adjustable rockers teflon gudgen buttons, This was a blown engine I bought
428 SCJ that I rebuilt with 2 x 4bbl lowriser (that was a beast of an engine) (Think it went to Auckland into a BB 67-68 Mustang)
427 top oiler x bolt mains, very nicely finished block, 1964 had Shelby alumin' sidewinder inlet (this was in wellington last I Knew)
I built a 410ci with 427 heads big cam 11:1 comp, factory 427 twin point - this thing had unbelievable power. (I sold this to a guy in Levin)
390s etc
I would like to build an early 60s FE big block Historic, I particularly like the 1957 ford custom 2 dr
42970
On another tangent... It would also be very cool to do a build on the Robbie Francevic's 427 Fairlane
42971
Neat engines Paul. As well as 352's and 390's I had a 65 427 top oiler , lemans rods, 428 CJ heads,
genuine Ford tunnel wedge twin four intake C8AX.
Just wondering did you seam weld any part of the engine bay ? Do the rules allow it.
Paul B
04-11-2017, 12:09 AM
I have not seam welded anything at the moment, The rules on reinforcing etc will need to followed. I am wanting to keep this build as period correct as possible in everyway to 1964,5 & 6 when these were raced up to Group2 & 5 I think.
It will be really interesting racing this car as close to exact build with no "new add ons" to make it better than it was.
I like The FEs very much, that's a rare engine you had, is it still about?
I will build another car after this with a FE.
Cheers
Paul B
04-13-2017, 07:35 AM
I have done a heap of research on body reinforcing and welding that may have been done at Holman Moody and... I can't see in any period pictures or anywhere of any reinforcing apart from when the cars were built to group 5 and there was extra reinforcing added around the rear spring hanger chassis holes as some cracking occurred.... after 1964 and then 2 years of full on racing, they went to wider rims, more traction, more stress on the suspension, this is likely what caused the stress cracks.
Of course safety being what it wasn't in 1964 there were no roll cages in the 64' Monte Carlo Falcons.
The Falcons did not have the upper Monte Carlo rally bar above the engine, only mustangs were fitted with these.
The MCR falcons had a lower suspension brace bar likely H-M fabrication that fitted under the sump and attached to the engine bracket bolts. A very tight fit. Also had the export brace fitted to the upper front suspension towers.
Both 63 & 64 had long aluminium skid plates under the of the front engine and these were bolted to the front chassis and engine brace. Also in rear below the fuel tank there was another skid plate
Below is the 6 cylinder lower brace bar, this does not fit with the V8 engine mount configuration and quick ratio steering.
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Paul B
04-17-2017, 10:07 AM
Here is an interesting link on Fords 427 SOHC engine, a fantastic piece of engineering at the time. 600hp straight out of the crate was the talk back then
https://macsmotorcitygarage.com/cammer-the-real-story-of-the-legendary-ford-427-sohc-v8/
Yes, the manifolds are red hot in this picture!, I believe that this was the test engine
43340
That is a lot of timing chain
43341
I think that is 1 piece of VERY COOL engineering. They had tunnel port heads
Paul B
04-22-2017, 05:20 AM
I had some help with the original steel rims and found a set from Neil, he has some great TBirds, including a factory 427 Tasca Bird!. These are the correct Kelsey Hays 5.5 inch rims.
43375
I fitted the rims up together with the Kelsey hays 4 pot discs and a very nice fit.
43377
The steel brake shoe access panel will be fitted with a split pin removal, very quick to change shoes
43378
Paul B
04-22-2017, 05:39 AM
I also fitted the interior primary cut off switch and it fit very nicely where the cigarette lighter was.
In the background is the manual transmission steering column
43379
Paul B
04-22-2017, 05:45 AM
Got back to longboard sanding the body down, to do this all the panels need to be fitted back up as perfect fit. Then long board sand the body and also across the fitted panel gaps to get the best finish.
I fitted up the bright work trim also to ensure all is lining up correctly. Too late to change anything after its painted!
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Paul B
04-26-2017, 08:29 AM
There is only so much longboard sanding you can do when you would just like to play with some other parts... so I got distracted and continued engineering the final fit for the brakes, The Kelsey Hays rims gave much needed clearance for the Callipers and some room to breath too
43422
The spindles will get a nice restoration soon.. after the fitting
The good thing about this build is there is so much room to fit brake cooling ducts it will be quite easy to do...That's later
I continued with the original in line brake booster and fitted that up, I needed to fabricate an outer bracket as best I could from original photos and fitted this.
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43424
Bruce302
04-26-2017, 08:33 AM
Nice work Paul, That will be a very impressive car.
Thanks for the photos and updates.
Bruce.
Paul B
04-26-2017, 08:37 AM
I went back over the oil cooler to check the fit and measure up for the radiator
I was lucky enough to find an original photo of the black aluminium mesh (debris protection) for the oil cooler. It looked a bit crude but none the less same as original so that's how I built it
43425
I need to also fabricate a new bracket to fit the Oil cooler
43426
43427
Paul B
04-26-2017, 08:46 AM
I moved on with the final pre-fit for the roll cage, I need to fit up all of the window winders, door handles and seats and the handbrake. Very easy to forget to pre-fit that part. It is a fairly tight fit but all fits snug.
43428
43429
Paul B
04-26-2017, 08:51 AM
Nice work Paul, That will be a very impressive car.
Thanks for the photos and updates.
Bruce.
Thanks Bruce, Looking forward to the day I getting it on to Hampton Downs!
Cheers
Paul B
04-26-2017, 08:58 AM
The long weekends over Easter were great to get a lot of jobs done. I also pre- fitted the quick ratio steering. and need to final check clearances for the lower tower support bar
43430
The original H-M built FIA car was 3.25 turns from lock to lock. Very good steering for 1964
43431
Steve Holmes
05-09-2017, 06:37 AM
I think I've run out of superlatives for this build.
Spgeti
05-09-2017, 07:24 PM
I think I've run out of superlatives for this build.
Yes I agree Steve. It is what we have been telling the guys in HMC/HSC, research, research before building.
kiwi285
05-10-2017, 03:05 AM
This is turning into a "How to' for building a HMC specification car. I am looking forward to meeting and having a chat - maybe on 20th May at HD. Magnificent job Paul.
Spgeti
05-10-2017, 03:37 AM
This is turning into a "How to' for building a HMC specification car. I am looking forward to meeting and having a chat - maybe on 20th May at HD. Magnificent job Paul.
It is actually a FIA Appendix K build Mike. Accuracy is very important in these builds and is far more period correct than the HMC spec which is based on Schedule T&C.
Paul B
05-10-2017, 07:40 AM
It is actually a FIA Appendix K build Mike. Accuracy is very important in these builds and is far more period correct than the HMC spec which is based on Schedule T&C.
Thanks Bruce, Mike & Steve,
It has been super interesting researching the build and I think it makes it more satisfying for me having the correct parts in the correct place.
I had a big glitch with the diff, as it was a HD Lincoln Versailles, so I after a lot of searching I found a correct early Galaxie housing, I have the LSDiff head already so the diff build is next to follow.
Still waiting for the roll cage fit.
It would be great to catch up on 20th - working on it!
Cheers to all
Paul B
05-10-2017, 09:55 AM
43662
This is an early view of how H-M set up the diffs, mainly for NASCAR, check out the oil cooling pump drive I think the pulley was fordson tractor.
Also the rear brake air ducts... and lowering blocks
Paul B
06-03-2017, 08:23 AM
I have decided not to use the steel doors, fenders, hood & Trunk
but instead opted to use all fiberglass panels as the Graham Hill car ran in the 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye (as did all 8 FIA cars entered)
I now have the Fiberglass hood, front fenders, doors and boot lid. I will be fitting up the panels over the next month and will post some more progress pic's soon.
The panels need a lot of work and will slow progress of the build to complete them and fit them correctly.
the doors will need functioning roll up windows. Most of the fiber panels will need reinforcing and many hours of extra work to get them to fit as they were in the day to be period correct. And then prep it all for paint.
Bodywork is by far the longest part of the build but so important to get it all done correctly as it will be all seen for a long time. So having a finished functional job that you can be proud of is the goal
Kiwiboss
06-03-2017, 09:59 PM
Myself and Tony Roberts spent a few hours with Paul and his lovely wife Bibi couple of Saturdays ago, they made us most welcome and enjoy looking at Pauls Falcon build, his attention to detail is assume, we had much discussion about his build, FIA schedule K, Homologation papers and the difference between this, T&C and old NZ historic Saloons.
Paul has committed to building his Falcon to FIA and will obtain the correct HTP(Historic Technical Passport) as used in GB and Europe, with the help of the MSNZ Historic and Classic commission. I would one day luv to see a proper FIA schedule K only class for these old Saloons as it appears more are coming, but at least in the meantime HMC and HSC gives them somewhere to race. Dale Mathers
Paul B
06-04-2017, 04:07 AM
Thanks Dale and Tony for taking the time to come by. It was our pleasure to host you both and talk old cars with like minded people.
Thanks also to yourself and Tony for the support and everyone else that has contributed positive support. I have found it all very motivating.
Cheers to all.
Paul
Steve Holmes
06-07-2017, 01:26 AM
I now have the Fiberglass hood, front fenders, doors and boot lid. I will be fitting up the panels over the next month and will post some more progress pic's soon.
Where did you source the panels from Paul?
Paul B
06-08-2017, 07:11 PM
I'll send you an email
Cheers
Paul B
06-21-2017, 07:03 AM
Now with all the lightweight fibreglass Hood, Doors, front fenders and trunk lid in the work shop, the big job of fitting and finishing it all begins. Fibreglass panels need an awful lot of work to fit correctly and usually some extra fibre glassing is needed to get it right. also some manufacturers use a type of rubberised type of mold release which is actually a type of alcohol based PVA and must be completely removed all over as a part of the prep work.
Then fitment begins, I have elected to use all of the OEM hinges & Bolts for , Hood, doors & Trunk lid also OEM bolts and fitment for Front fenders to meet the exact mounting placement as original.
As far as researching the Fibre panels for 1964 they were exact copies of the OEM steel parts. So I will continue down that path.
The finish of these parts was pretty good.
The Trunk lid was made almost identical to steel top and inner panel too
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44044
The hood and front fender, pre fit much work to do here
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44046
The doors are nicely made skins but inner frame is too flimsy and will need work
44047
Paul B
06-21-2017, 07:11 AM
On page 3, post #51 the external cut off switch is posted and the plastic modern look just did not cut it for me. So I fabricated a new steel key and a rubber waterproof grommet and I think it looks much more period. I will need to get some red colour on this too.
44048
Steve Holmes
06-22-2017, 04:33 AM
Thats a really nice kit Paul.
Paul B
06-22-2017, 07:10 AM
Thanks Steve, the freight from the states was a killer but completely worth it.
Paul B
06-26-2017, 06:21 AM
I started fitting the fiberglass panels, the doors need a lot of work to mount the door handles, locks, latchs and hinges. As I will be using OEM parts to fit the fiber panels I needed to fabricate some door inside hinge mounts and reinforcing. I have modeled these on the exact parts that are in the OEM steel doors. These new steel parts will be fiberglass into the fiber doors. The 4 way adjustable part will be also fitted prior to fiberglass.
The top steel hinge panels for each door also provide reinforcing for the quarter windows which is much needed for these particular fiber doors. The lower steel protrusion On the (top pieces in picture) mounting point will also add to the strength of the mounting of lower quarter window mount bolt.
44121
For fitting the handles I made a pattern using 2 reference points from the steel doors then fitted the pattern to the fibre panels for cutting out the door handle holes and lock holes
44122
Then I cut out the holes using mainly a drill and grinding tip, because the fibre is a bit thicker around the handle area a small amount of extra material must be removed to fit the door handle successfully
44123
The fibre doors will need a lot of tidy up work around the edges and seams after the initial fit. They are by far the most amount of work to fit correctly as they are simply fibre blanks and every mount hole must be created using reference patterns. I have elected to use wind up windows with 4.5mm Lexan replacing the glass. The OEM glass is too heavy for the fibre door structure.
The addition of the steel hinge reinforcing adds extra support structure to the door and I also wanted it for safety with these lightweight parts.
Steve Holmes
06-26-2017, 06:44 AM
Outstanding work Paul, I can't wait to see this car in the flesh.
Paul B
06-26-2017, 07:16 AM
Thanks Steve,
I have a lot more time now to work on it so things will go a little quicker now.
Cheers
Spgeti
06-27-2017, 09:49 PM
Looking really good Paul. Yes a huge amount of work to get the doors fitted out. We have a contact for Lexan if you have not got that sorted.
Cheers
Paul B
06-28-2017, 07:25 AM
Looking really good Paul. Yes a huge amount of work to get the doors fitted out. We have a contact for Lexan if you have not got that sorted.
Cheers
Thanks Bruce
I have not got the Lexan sorted yet so a contact would be great, thanks very much for the prompt!. I think its 4.5mm for side and rear windows.
I have spent nearly 30 hours on the doors so far, estimate another 10-15 hours to finish fitting. Then the clean up and panel work, prime and paint prep.
Cheers
Paul B
07-03-2017, 08:44 AM
Fitting the fibre glass doors (once all the handles, latches and hinges are done) is not your usual job of getting the gaps right.
There will be a variation between the outside and inside moulds and where they are bonded together.
This in turn affects the rubber seal and door gaps.
With Fibre doors they need to be fitted with the door rubbers on (once you have done a prefit of the door shell, marked & drilled the hinge holes) and fitted from the inside first to ensure the rubber is fitting correctly all around the door. First I check the inside gaps are all even and factory. Then to test the fit I close the door with a sheet of paper in between, pull it to check tension. I do this all the way around. This will check the inside seal & weather tightness is correct.
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44269
Then it is down to gapping the door for the correct fit, sometimes this may involve extending some fibreglass to some edges to correct the gap or sanding some fiberglass to get the gaps right.
..... its a mission!
Paul B
07-16-2017, 09:20 AM
This is Lars Esselius's Falcon Sprint from Sweden, Lars is a specialist in building these cars.
I think this is his second sprint built
44474
This car ran 2.03 around Sandfort in The Netherlands
44475
44476
44477
The engine is 398bhp 289, very healthy for a flat tappet engine
44478
The gearbox on this car is a toploader with alloy tail shaft & straight cut gears and not a T10 which was original
44479
Paul B
08-08-2017, 09:17 AM
Graham Hill and Ian Walker teamed up in car 201. Graham Hills car carried more interior trim than some of the other cars. He had a few "offs" during the race. One story was he pulled off part of the left front fiberglass fender after they tried to pull out the front of the car with a rope tied to a tree after an "off" on part of a stage during the Monte Carlo Rallye.
This photo was taken at the end of the race, Ian Walker was standing so you could not see the damage of the front left fender which happened in a later stage.
45253
The below picture was actually the Media car but carried Graham Hill's race number, a clone for writer reviews
45080
If you look at the rear suspension front spring mount, this was much lower than stock, this was a reinforced plate front spring hanger and extra half spring fitted to minimise axle tramp.
45081
Steve Holmes
08-09-2017, 01:28 AM
I finally got to meet Paul last week and take a look at his Falcon Sprint build. As well as being a bloody nice guy, Paul is doing an incredible job with this car. This is going to set new standards for period correct historic tin top race cars in New Zealand. The attention to detail is just amazing, and everything is very well researched and thought out. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Paul B
08-09-2017, 07:06 AM
I finally got to meet Paul last week and take a look at his Falcon Sprint build. As well as being a bloody nice guy, Paul is doing an incredible job with this car. This is going to set new standards for period correct historic tin top race cars in New Zealand. The attention to detail is just amazing, and everything is very well researched and thought out. Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thanks for your kind words Steve. It was great to meet up and "chew the auto grease". I really enjoyed having you visit.
I am still enjoying the build very much. I am chomping at the bit to get this finished, just the fibreglass and roll cage slowing me down, then its off to paint.
Hopefully will get up to HMC HSC next meet, I think in October.
Cheers
Paul B
08-16-2017, 08:45 AM
So much work has been done to get the fiberglass panels fitted correctly and looking good. The hood is finally fitted & finished and the old school hood pins are fitted as it looked in 1964.
45386
The trunk lid is also fitted and finished with the OEM lock and latch, I may fit some stays to the trunk to secure better.
45387
The doors are still a work in progress as I want them fitting correctly. I have had to do much reworking of these parts so they will fit and also I want the roll up windows and quarter windows fitting correctly and functioning - more pics to come soon
Paul B
08-16-2017, 08:58 AM
Reproduction parts>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Well, where would we be without these parts. We are so very fortunate to have many aftermarket companies manufacturing and suppling these parts to keep these old gems functioning and looking schmecco.
BUT, caution, with some aftermarket reproduction parts, while doing my steering I found the cheaper reproduction inner & outer tie rods are not the same specification as the more heavy duty OEM Inner tie rods
The left is a cheaper repro' sold with the V8 part number but 9/16 nut and look at the lower ball joint shaft taper
The right is the V8 OEM product 11/16 nut. They both fit... but.
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There are other companies making high spec' repro' steering parts, the same as OEM, but they are 3 times the price of the cheaper parts, but well worth it
Watch & caution for cheaper steering parts that are around US$30
Also the toe adjuster sleeves:
The top one is the OEM with 9/16 UNF nut & bolt
The lower one is the cheaper Repro part with 10mm Metric nut & bolt the steel clamp shell is 1mm lighter than OEM and the sleeve is near 1mm thinner than OEM. These sell around US$10
45389
The issue here is some of these repro' parts are not as the original manufacturer has designed and I will not be using these parts on my build.
Also watch for rear spring hangers, there are some light weight examples out there too. In most cases it is best to restore the OEM part if possible.
Of the hundreds of part I have purchased, only a very small percentage I have found to be like this.
So I still rate these companies, on the whole, really helpful.
Steve Holmes
08-17-2017, 09:23 PM
I wrote a small report on Pauls Falcon plus a brief history on these cars and their popularity in European historic racing in the latest NZ Classic Car mag, which hits the shelves on Monday.
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Paul B
08-22-2017, 08:47 AM
Thanks for penning another great article Steve!
A perfect overview of Appendix K Group 2 & Group 5 and how this fits within HSC/HMC. You are right, the Falcon will likely not be a front running car built to Appendix K Group 2. I am sure the Escorts and the like will fly past me in the corners as the Falcon takes on an angular state with the 5.5inch rims.
But that's all part of the fun!
Cheers
Steve Holmes
08-27-2017, 12:43 AM
Thanks for penning another great article Steve!
A perfect overview of Appendix K Group 2 & Group 5 and how this fits within HSC/HMC. You are right, the Falcon will likely not be a front running car built to Appendix K Group 2. I am sure the Escorts and the like will fly past me in the corners as the Falcon takes on an angular state with the 5.5inch rims.
But that's all part of the fun!
Cheers
Yeah you are right Paul. But remember, your car is being built to a set of 1964 regulations, whereas many of the cars you're racing against will have the best part of ten years on you in terms of technology and the freedoms the rules will allow.
The most important thing is that you're building a correct car, that you'll have a heap of fun, and that no matter where you are in the field there will always be someone to race against.
Paul B
08-27-2017, 07:14 AM
Yeah you are right Paul. But remember, your car is being built to a set of 1964 regulations, whereas many of the cars you're racing against will have the best part of ten years on you in terms of technology and the freedoms the rules will allow.
The most important thing is that you're building a correct car, that you'll have a heap of fun, and that no matter where you are in the field there will always be someone to race against.
Thanks Steve, Yes its amazing how cars developed in that 5 - 10 year period. I will be more than happy with my 1964 time capsule!
Paul B
08-27-2017, 07:20 AM
Well I just got sick of fiberglass panels! So I took a break and proceeded with the final pre-fit of the front bumper & grill etc. The grill was re-anodised in USA and the bumpers were from the states, triple plated.
I may look at some aluminium bumpers also a bit later on. For the moment I will concentrate on getting the panel work finished and roll cage finished. Always looks better with the shiny bling bits.
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Oldfart
08-27-2017, 01:34 PM
Looking good Paul.
Paul B
08-28-2017, 06:01 AM
Thanks very much Rhys,
While looking for parts (as you do when there is nothing on TV worth watching, so that means every day) I found some Lucas 576 spot lights just to keep the outside looking like the 1964 Graham Hill car #201. I had a good 1964 pic' of the Spot light mounts so I fabricated some today to accept the lucas spotlights, I need to still paint the mounts black.
Picture of #201 Graham Hill & Ian Walker car.. (if you look into the car you car see it was running full interior trim)
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Pic of Lucas 576 spot lights fitted.
45798
I also fitted some stainless mesh to the headlights
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Paul B
09-08-2017, 07:40 AM
While I have been avoiding my fiberglass panels I have been also finishing the rear brake set up and fitting the correct 9 inch Galaxie diff with a LSD third member. These were the locker type diffs and worked very well for years.
The rear brake set ups that Holman Moody used on cars they built for endurance such as Nascar and the Monte Carlo Rallye all had a lot of reworking for air cooling and ducts as below -46092
So I got to work fabricating, working with steel and aluminium (is what I prefer) and finished the air ducts - (You can see the cooling holes through the mesh)
46093
So then the air is directed into the hub via a myriad of holes at the front of the back plate. The air circulates and is released via a similar hole pattern at the rear of the backing plate. I found a pattern of the original 11inch drum back plates and used that as a copy to get this correct
46094
The Monte Carlo Rallye Falcons also had rear 9 pad brake shoes on each side to allow the air to disperse around and cool the brake parts, it all works as a complete system and very well designed by Holman Moody. I am getting the special 9 pad shoes done and will post up progress when I pick up the parts. This is a pic' of the front brakes of a NASCAR Galaxie, same system was used on the rear.
46095
Spgeti
09-08-2017, 09:05 AM
Cool work Paul.
Paul B
09-09-2017, 09:57 PM
Cool work Paul.
Thanks Bruce,
It takes about as much time to research the period correct way to do this stuff as what it takes to fabricate it.
But that's what I like.
I can't find any detail on the brake drums, I know with this system H-M had very small holes drilled on the perimeter of the drums. But without the research confirmation I will be leaving the drums stock for the meantime.
John McKechnie
09-09-2017, 11:29 PM
Drilling brake drums was common back then- once the heat problem went, drums were still very good- look at Norm Beecehey.
Steve Holmes
09-10-2017, 01:20 AM
Drilling brake drums was common back then- once the heat problem went, drums were still very good- look at Norm Beecehey.
Thats a good point John, his Nova ran drums for much of its life.
Paul B
09-10-2017, 08:21 AM
Thats a good point John, his Nova ran drums for much of its life.
Thanks John & Steve, I just wanted to get some factual confirmation that this was correct for my car. I just needed to dig further to confirm. This is a picture (from Tangerine Crusher Galaxie) of the rest of the H-M period brake drum cooling system I just found.
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John McKechnie
09-10-2017, 09:42 AM
Also Paul, in the 70s Brian Crosbie won a race series in the South Island- see thread....Is this Firebird still around- it had drum brakes front and rear
Did the job against Ernies GTHO and others.
Paul B
09-11-2017, 07:12 AM
I did not know that the Brian Crosbie Firebird had drums all round. Pretty impressive against the other disc brake cars of the day.
I had a 1958 ford custom 300 (gold flash) with drum brakes all round and I fitted an inline booster and the brakes were fantastic in that car. It had a big block bored to around 6.7L . It hauled, with 2 truckloads of torque!
The Falcon sprint (Monte Carlo rally cars only) had Kelsey Hays 4 pot disc brakes on the front with an in-line brake booster. It even had a dual circuit brake system. These disc brakes were essentially the same as what the 1965 Thunderbirds came out with.
John McKechnie
09-11-2017, 07:28 PM
Not forgetting of course, George Sheweiry with drums front and rear on his big Mercury Comet.
He ran pre-65 and also beat Dale -all discs Mustang - home at Hampton Downs a few years ago.
I can pm his email if you want
Paul B
09-11-2017, 08:49 PM
Not forgetting of course, George Sheweiry with drums front and rear on his big Mercury Comet.
He ran pre-65 and also beat Dale -all discs Mustang - home at Hampton Downs a few years ago.
I can pm his email if you want
Thanks John, that would be great, I really like Comets, particularly the Comet AFX 427 big blocks.
I will be approaching car set up very soon. I think I have most of it worked out but its always different in practice. I do want to keep within how Holman Moody built the car so I have a few limitations such as, I cant use the Shelby drop as far as I am aware this did not come until later, 1965 I think?
John McKechnie
09-11-2017, 09:10 PM
done- hope it all works.
Shelby drop came later I was told , just check as to when Shelby Mustangs came into production
Paul B
09-12-2017, 07:56 AM
After doing some research on the "Shelby Drop"for the upper control arm of the Monty Carlo Rallye Falcons.
It was actually Klaus Arning (who designed the suspension in the GT40), who Ford tasked to look at redesigning the suspension of the new Mustang, in particular the rear to independent. The 1963 Corvette was launched with an independent rear suspension and Ford wanted to look at a design option for an independent rear suspension for the new Mustang. During this project Klaus Arning redesigned the front suspension geometry by lowering the upper control arm by 1 inch and rearward 1/8 inch. The new front & rear suspension apparently worked very well on one or more prototypes but did not get within the budget of the new Mustang and was abandoned by Ford.
Carol Shelby then picked up Klaus's design of lowering of the upper control arm for the Ford production of the 1966 Shelby Mustang but it was discontinued sometime around mid 1966.
So it looks like the first Ford prototype of this lower upper control arm designed by Klaus Arning was likely done between 1963 and 1964 prior to the launch of the new mustang.
Weather in fact it was used by Holman moody or later by Alan mann racing for the Monte Carlo Rallye Falcons is unknown... but a possibility.
Kiwiboss
09-12-2017, 08:12 PM
I'd have to look it up but as far as I know the Shelby 1" drop was used by Shelby when Ken miles was testing a proto type mustang coupe around early 65 prior to Shelby building the 65 Mustangs, I know it was used in the 65 R-Models which was in 1965. I don't think it was used in 66 Shelby's much because for street Shelby's they were looking at cost cutting and getting them out the door. Also the last 252 65 Shelby were sold as 66 models and known as Carry-Over 65 Shelby's today and have there own special pricing. Dale M
Thanks John, that would be great, I really like Comets, particularly the Comet AFX 427 big blocks.
I will be approaching car set up very soon. I think I have most of it worked out but its always different in practice. I do want to keep within how Holman Moody built the car so I have a few limitations such as, I cant use the Shelby drop as far as I am aware this did not come until later, 1965 I think?
Paul B
09-13-2017, 07:49 AM
I'd have to look it up but as far as I know the Shelby 1" drop was used by Shelby when Ken miles was testing a proto type mustang coupe around early 65 prior to Shelby building the 65 Mustangs, I know it was used in the 65 R-Models which was in 1965. I don't think it was used in 66 Shelby's much because for street Shelby's they were looking at cost cutting and getting them out the door. Also the last 252 65 Shelby were sold as 66 models and known as Carry-Over 65 Shelby's today and have there own special pricing. Dale M
Thanks Dale,
I am not going to use the Shelby drop, as I don't really think the date timing works and more likely it was not used on the H-M Falcons, or as far as I can see.
I can remove some of the factory upper control arm shims to get a theoretical 2 deg camber on this car. I will figure out caster after I fit the rebuilt rear springs which may drop the back of the car down a bit. But I should be ok for a reasonable castor number too, all going well.
Cheers
Paul B
09-19-2017, 07:58 AM
The 11 inch rear brakes shoes have been finished and built exactly the same as #1250 FIA homologation these have been surface radiused to match the reground drums.
46433
Fitted into the drums you can see the ventilation in between the shoes
46434
So this almost completes the rear brake set up I only need to drill the drums but I will be measuring this carefully prior to drilling so there is no unbalanced drum when complete.
Paul B
09-19-2017, 08:09 AM
So I finally got back to the fiberglass doors. The ones I imported from USA were too light and flimsy and would not accommodate the windows without flexing creating issues with door closure and secure closure.
So I stripped them down by removing the outer skin from the inner shell frame.
46435
I completely rebuilt a new inner shell frame with structural fiberglass woven mesh and added extra reinforcing to the window mechanism mount points and quarter window mount points. I also added extra structural mesh to the hinge and door latch mount points.
Then to stiffen the frame I added an extra layer of structural woven mesh.
All of this has allowed a structure that can carry the windows and door mechanisms without sagging.
The extra structure also makes the door much safer. Also much heavier.
46436
I also fitted the steel hinge reinforcing panels that I fabricated earlier and fibre glassed these in. It made a huge difference to the door structure combined with the extra structural fiberglass.
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So after this cures I will start fitting the inner shell to the hinges with the door rubber fitted and door latch on. When this fits correctly then the outer skin can be fitted to complete the door.
Bruce302
09-19-2017, 09:07 AM
Nice work Paul. That is super impressive.
B.
Oldfart
09-20-2017, 01:14 AM
Very nice, and so cool that you share your journey.
Steve Holmes
09-20-2017, 01:18 AM
I agree with these guys ^^. Stunning work, and an awesome effort. And really enjoyable to see come to life.
Paul B
09-20-2017, 07:45 AM
Thanks Steve, Rhys & Bruce,
Only one word to say about fiberglass doors..... mission!
You really must use separate clothing gear to wear to protect your whole body (cover all skin, hair, eyes etc) from the glass dust and use highest quality respiration gear due to the very strong solvents.
These doors sure have been a journey Rhys. Thanks all for the positive support! very much appreciated.
Cheers
Paul B
10-05-2017, 09:55 PM
Update:
The Falcon is now away getting the roll cage fitted, It will be a homologated 6 point, period, bolt in cage, a much more expensive option but something I felt fitted the period of the car I am trying to build.
The 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye Falcons did not race with a roll cage fitted - As you see in many early pictures, safety in pre 65 cars and tracks was rather minimal to non existent.
This 64 Mercury Caliente had a roll cage. not sure what happen to the wheel!.. Rim failure?
46681
Driver was lucky to be thrown out of the car!
46682
Paul B
10-06-2017, 10:27 AM
While the car is away I have started fitting the Polycarbonate windows to the door window regulators. The old glass requires careful coaxing to remove the stainless side trim and the window regulator.
46691
It is difficult to get window regulator rubber that is 1.6mm (I only managed to get 1.1mm) so I very carefully removed the old glass and cleaned up the old regulator rubber which was fortunately still in good condition and used that.
After doing some research on Poly-carbonates I found that the traditional urethane based black window sealer is not compatible with poly-carbonates due to possible plasticizing reactions . They recommended using non acid silicone based product to seal.
So I will be sealing the Poly-carbonate in with this to secure it all.
This is a pic' of the clear Poly-carbonate fitted to the door window frame. I used 4.5mm on the side windows which was almost the same size as the original glass
46692
Many thanks to Paul McCarthy -Plastics Constructions Ltd. for the abrasion resistant poly-carbonate
Paul B
10-06-2017, 10:34 AM
I also had a look at the firewall sound deadening. The original was Bituminous board and under felt.
This was what it looked like when I removed it... seen better days (a bit like my hair follicles)
46709
So, I made a pattern from this and fitted it into the firewall to ensure all the holes were in the right place. Then I got some Bituminous board and cut to suit. I use a Maun hole punch set to make all the holes, It helps to get a nice look, Then some 23mm under felt was cut out to the same size and glued together with contact adhesive. Same as it was done in the day.
46694
Probably would have been easier buying it ready made, But its much cooler making it
Steve Holmes
10-06-2017, 07:51 PM
This build continues to amaze me.
Spgeti
10-06-2017, 07:56 PM
I just love it...no worries re weight. It is all about correctness.
Your an inspiration Paul.
Paul B
10-06-2017, 10:39 PM
I just love it...no worries re weight. It is all about correctness.
Your an inspiration Paul.
Thanks very much guys, nice to know someone is reading all this!
Yes, weight is of course a very big consideration but something that in this particular build I cannot let take precedence over what was correct in 1964 when Holman Moody built these cars.
So this car built to #201 Graham Hill/Ian Walker spec' will be a little heavier running as much interior trim as possible, as it did in the day.
But again the car on period OEM 5.5inch wide rims will surely be at a disadvantage. It will be interesting to drive as they did in the day.
Some Monte Carlo Rallye Falcons were more stripped out than others, number 49 driven by Bo Ljungfeldt had no interior trim at all and the OEM bucket seats were modified for extra side support and likely lightened.
Interesting site about MCR and George Merwin
http://www.ponysite.de/georgemerwin.htm
Also here is the final 1964 MCR placement list and DNFs link
https://www.ewrc-results.com/final.php?e=14887
Paul B
10-11-2017, 08:11 AM
The car came back last night with the new roll cage. I stuck with a period bolt in cage as planned, Karl at the Trailer center in Upper Hutt fitted it for me, it looks great.
Just need to finish the holomogation papers etc to send into MSNZ
Its starting to look like a real car now
46826
46827
46828
46829
Bruce302
10-11-2017, 08:50 AM
It's starting to look like a real race car, though a bit nicer than many with those better than factory panel and door gaps.
The cage looks great, he made a nice job of it.
B.
Paul B
10-11-2017, 09:45 AM
Yes, you are right Bruce, not many of these types of cars from this era had a particularly good panel fit from the showroom floor. As a mass produced car was back then.
All the panels on this will fit as they did in the day, not too bad, but not perfect. gaps were 3-4.5mm (big difference from todays Audi's)
The fiberglass panels, particularly race panels move a lot and in changing temperatures & can typically have hollows and some ripples occur after painting, when it was all straight when it went in for paint. I am not worried about that, its all part of the character that makes the car.
A bit like a wrinkle on your face, some see the wrinkle and others see the character.
Spgeti
10-11-2017, 07:10 PM
Cage looks great Paul. He has done a really nice job. Looks correct for period.
Those of you are following this thread, Paul will be at HD on Saturday to be part of HMC/HSC group.
Please look him up and say hello.
He won't be far away from Dale or myself.
Cheers
Bruce
Paul B
10-11-2017, 11:09 PM
Cage looks great Paul. He has done a really nice job. Looks correct for period.
Those of you are following this thread, Paul will be at HD on Saturday to be part of HMC/HSC group.
Please look him up and say hello.
He won't be far away from Dale or myself.
Cheers
Bruce
Thanks Bruce,
Looking forward to it!! Will be great to meet all.
Look for the baldy with a Monte Carlo Rally Falcon tee shirt
Cheers
Paul B
10-30-2017, 08:58 AM
While looking for wheels, I was looking to see what was being manufactured in 1964 with regard to mag wheels.
I will likely need to use an alloy rim for racing. Due to the age and rarity of the Kelsey Hays original steel rims and coupled with that the failure rate of many of these steel rims, I have come to the realisation that it will be safer to use an alloy rim. I will likely use and American Racing type rim. I will still restore the OEM steel rims and use these for transporting the car etc.
I found this information on Astro Mag wheel that were produced in 64.
http://losboulevardos.cc/2008/08/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-supremes.html
Great if you want to build a low rider
Spgeti
10-30-2017, 09:46 AM
They are cool, but a bit flashy...
Steve Holmes
10-31-2017, 02:51 AM
While looking for wheels, I was looking to see what was being manufactured in 1964 with regard to mag wheels.
I will likely need to use an alloy rim for racing. Due to the age and rarity of the Kelsey Hays original steel rims and coupled with that the failure rate of many of these steel rims, I have come to the realisation that it will be safer to use an alloy rim. I will likely use and American Racing type rim. I will still restore the OEM steel rims and use these for transporting the car etc.
I found this information on Astro Mag wheel that were produced in 64.
http://losboulevardos.cc/2008/08/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-supremes.html
Great if you want to build a low rider
Hi Paul, the Astro Supremes are great looking wheels, but definitely only for road use. They've always just been a custom road wheel, and although there are many companies now making these wheels, they all follow a similar construction method in that they make them as a 2-piece wheel with outer rim and centre/spokes, chrome the pieces separately, then spot weld the two parts together. There have been cases of these wheels breaking on road cars, so definitely no good for a race car.
Its a bit of a tough choice when building a period correct 1964 car, as there weren't too many options in 1964. The Falcon Monte Carlo cars obviously used steel wheels, and even the Falcon Sprints that were road raced in the US for the most part used steel wheels. You could simply purchase a new set of steel wheels from Coker Tire, Wheel Vintiques, etc.
The Falcon Sprints that raced in the British Saloon Car Championship under Group 5 rules used a wide variety of wheels, including Cobra wheels, which look really cool. But of course this falls outside the time-frame you're working to, as these cars raced from 1966 onwards.
Probably the closest wheel style for your time-frame would be the American Racing Torq Thrust. These appeared on Trans-Am cars during the first year of the T-A championship in 1966, and both the Falcon Sprints that now run with Historic Trans-Am use Torq Thrusts, even though these cars raced in period on steel wheels.
I really like the approach Michael Eisenberg has taken with his early Falcon Sprint. He has painted the Torq Thrusts black, which makes them look really nice and subtle while still giving the car a tough look:
47410
Paul B
10-31-2017, 04:37 AM
Yes, agree Bruce way too flashy. And yes Steve a real strength problem.
I just like looking at all the old stuff.
Thanks for posting up the 63 Falcon pic, Its quite a good idea painting the whole Torque thrust wheels black.
I was also wondering about using a new repro 64 Mustang Styled steel rim (welded centers) & painted black.
47420
Steve Holmes
10-31-2017, 06:06 AM
Yeah those look good Paul. I also like the wheels fitted to that original road race Falcon Sprint on the other thread. They look like Shelby wheels?
Anyway, it just dawned on me that the Norm Beechey, Bob Jane and Pete Geoghegan Mustangs all first appeared in 1965, and all three cars wore Torq Thrusts, although the Beechey Mustang initially wore white painted steel wheels.
So too the Ivan Segedin Mustang, which had its first race in late 1965, was also fitted with Torq Thrusts. I've never seen a 1964 photo of a car fitted with Torq Thrusts, but for sure, as after market wheels, these come very close to the date classification of your car.
47421
Paul B
10-31-2017, 07:26 AM
The wheels on the unrestored Falcon are Kelsey Hays Magstars from 1967
Wheels are difficult to get right, each car is different, Its probably going to be Torq thrusts. But
The shelby 10 spokes are nice 1965 - 1967
47422
As are Magnum steel rims (which I have a set of)
47423
Bruce302
10-31-2017, 07:55 AM
There is steel wheel used on large Canadian Mercury's, it has 5 "windows" and is similar to the ones used on the Australian Falcon GT's
It is supposedly a stronger unit than the average US Ford Pony car wheel and was used by some privateer (lo-buck) racers.
Bruce.
Paul B
10-31-2017, 08:38 AM
Thanks Bruce, thats from a Mercury Grand Marquis, not a bad looking rim, Might be a bit too late model for what I am looking for
47424
I have found new some steel rims 15inch x 114.3 in most sizes fully welded centers, could be a possibility. I need to mull it all over.
Paul B
10-31-2017, 08:46 AM
Pic of American racing Original - this is the closest Alloy rim to period correct.
47427
Paul B
11-02-2017, 07:23 AM
(Continued from post #125)
Bored? nothing to do? what about spending 200+ hours building fiberglass doors.
Well that what it takes to get a door working, as it was from the factory but in Fiberglass.
Its an amazingly complex thing to do due to many tolerances all working correctly for the quarter window to close correctly on the A pillar to the windows being able to slide up and down and the door latch fitting thicker fiberglass vs 1mm steel and ensuring it closes with the correct tolerance to the striker plate. etc. etc. etc.
Heres the pics, ( 1 door is done and the other is close, only gapping to do now)
Here is the new Frame
47465
First layer of single structural fiberglass, laid over 1 layer of 400g chop-mat
47462
Second layer of double structural glass for mechanism reinforcing
47463
Third layer of double structural glass for reinforcing the door frame
47464
The mix ratio of hardner and resin is critical and must be measured precisely so as not to over harden or under harden, a level of flexibility without cracking is desired.
Appling the mesh in stages minimises or better eliminates air bubbles (which affect strength)
Paul B
11-02-2017, 07:32 AM
After all that cured I rehung the door and fitted all of the windows, latches etc - MUST have all door rubber on.
The Aluminum brace bar which will remain in the door, this will be bonded (marine urethane) to the outer skin later for bracing to eliminate any possibility of twist flexing.
47479
Then after checking all functions and fits and then fitted the skin to the door and race taped and braced it to cure
47475
After allowing a day to fully cure ITS DONE!! All of the bracing and structural fiberglass has made a really good quality door that closes beautifully and is quite rigid. But most of all much safer
47476
Looks better with the trim fitted - Also the Polycarbonate window is fitted
47477
47478
Oldfart
11-02-2017, 04:22 PM
Great work Paul. Your attention to detail is mind boggling.
Allan
11-02-2017, 06:03 PM
I note with interest the "passed inspection" sticker on the quarter window, which certainly describes your workmanship.
as a point of interest, how much lighter are the self made doors?
Paul B
11-02-2017, 08:23 PM
Thanks very much Rhys, Its much better being at the other end when its done. Then its nice to sit back and appreciate the fruits of much toil and labour.
Allan, thanks for your post. I find its a bit like racing - Once you've committed to a corner, your really in boots and all.
928, Weight saving with doors - The reality is that there is not really much of a saving if you want to have roll up windows and a fully functional door, the Polycarbonate window is a must to reduce dead weight in the door to help the fiberglass structure. I have yet to weigh the finished door shell but I will be surprised if I save 5kg per door. The OEM steel door shell only, weighs 13.5kg.
Different story if you have horizontal sliding or fixed poly windows.
The real reason for making these is to restore this car exactly as possible to the Graham Hill car #201 from the Monte Carlo Rally to meet FIA #1250 Homologation. Thats the mission.
Spgeti
11-02-2017, 08:51 PM
Just a note to the guys following Paul’s fantastic build. The car is being built strictly to the FIA Homologation Papers for his 1964 Falcon Sprint and therefore you can not deviate away from these specifications unless you can prove that in period a modification outside of these actually happened.
The wheels for instance for the Torque Thrust wheels were actually dated when first manufactured which is 1963.
This is how correct Paul is taking his build.
Bruce302
11-04-2017, 01:36 AM
47510
Just one I found, sorry no further details.
B.
Steve Holmes
11-04-2017, 01:47 AM
47510
Just one I found, sorry no further details.
B.
Thats Roy Pierpoint in the Bill Shaw Racing Falcon. This team ran a Camaro briefly in 1969 before it got written off, at which point they reverted back to the Falcon.
Paul B
11-04-2017, 08:16 PM
Thanks Bruce, This pic ^^ is one of the further developed Group5 Falcons which ran later as Steve mentioned above (very successfully too) .
They had much wider rims, a light flaring to the rear fenders, lowered, very low particularly in the rear. They were allowed to run without bumpers and I think these cars were further lightened to try and get to the impossible 980kg Homologation weight.
I would "estimate" the weight of these cars at around 1080kg - Some of todays Appendix K Falcons have a weight of approximately 1160kg and likely struggled to get to that! As far as I am aware 980kg homologation weight was never realised.
So the above car in Group 5 trim, without a rollcage and minus bumpers, Plus whatever else was either swiss cheesed or removed could very likely be 1080kg weight.
in 1968 the engine were stroked to 302, inductions were upgraded to 4 Webers, Cam shaft and Distributor technology leaped back then so the engines were more than likely putting out 400hp+. Power to weight would have been very good for group5.
The Alan Mann Group 5 Falcon had coil springs in the rear. So much development change was made to these cars.
I cant build my car to this spec.
My car will be Appendix K, Group 2, FIA Homologation #1250
khyndart in CA
11-04-2017, 08:56 PM
Paul,
I posted these photos on the other Falcon thread.
They show an Alan Mann 1964 Falcon Monte Carlo Rallye car. License number ZE1051
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47522
47523
(I really enjoy your inputs and details of your work. You are a true craftsman indeed )
Ken H
Steve Holmes
11-04-2017, 09:30 PM
Thanks Bruce, This pic ^^ is one of the further developed Group5 Falcons which ran later as Steve mentioned above (very successfully too) .
They had much wider rims, a light flaring to the rear fenders, lowered, very low particularly in the rear. They were allowed to run without bumpers and I think these cars were further lightened to try and get to the impossible 980kg Homologation weight.
I would "estimate" the weight of these cars at around 1080kg - Some of todays Appendix K Falcons have a weight of approximately 1160kg and likely struggled to get to that! As far as I am aware 980kg homologation weight was never realised.
So the above car without a rollcage and minus bumpers, Plus whatever else was either swiss cheesed or removed could very likely be 1080kg weight.
The engine inductions were upgraded Cam shaft and Distributor technology leaped back then so the engines were possibly putting out 375-400hp. Power to weight would have been very good for group5.
The Alan Mann Group 5 Falcon had coil springs in the rear. So much development change was made to these cars.
I cant build my car to this spec.
I would love to get hold of a set of Group 5 regulations, just to see what freedoms were allowed. Looking through the FIA Homologations List, there is no mention of Group 5. Only Groups 1, 2, 3, seem to be covered for modern day historic racing, and UK/European event promoters only only seem to cater to Groups 1, 2, 3 cars.
Group 5 was used in the British Saloon Car Championship, the ETCC, and even the NZ Saloon Car Championship during the late 1960s, but there seems to be no recognition of it now. Maybe it was considered just a bit too free for modern historic racing.
Paul B
11-05-2017, 03:53 AM
Thanks very much Ken, They are great shots from 1964, The engine bay photo ^^ is exactly how I will be building my car. I have been using this shot a lot to get it all correct.
I have all of the parts that you see in the above photo now, apart from the Grifffin copper radiator with a left side top pipe, I will have to get this made, $$s and I have not been able to track down what type of remote oil filter adapter they have used (on the left side of the car in front of suspension tower). I have an AC one that is close & period correct. but still researching that part. If anyone has a clue, it would be gratefully received! ... Mystery of the month quiz!
Steve, I have been looking for group 5 info too... as a matter of interest.
The original 289 blocks become a bit unreliable around 400+ HP and prone to failure.
Spgeti
11-05-2017, 04:21 AM
I have your spot lights Paul, collect next week.
Cheers
Bruce
Paul B
11-05-2017, 10:27 PM
Thats Roy Pierpoint in the Bill Shaw Racing Falcon. This team ran a Camaro briefly in 1969 before it got written off, at which point they reverted back to the Falcon.
Great post from Ken on the "Falcon sprint thread" - what a find!
Very interesting. As it turns out this car is the surviving Graham Hill car (that I did not even know existed) and was also the Pierpoint car as shown previous posts. It was in Washington state, now sold.
It has some very interesting group 5 Information
Alan Mann racing rebuilt into a Group 5 BSCC (British Saloon Car Championship) racer and sold to Roy Pierpoint.
Pierpoint drove this car ( race history on file) sold car to Martin Birrane in 1969.
Birrane races car in late 1969. Somewhere in here a 500hp 351ci gets added in that was also raced at BSCC
Birrane sells car to Martin Thomas in 1970s. Thomas then has it comprehensively rebuilt by Cambridge Motorsports in the UK in 1990's
Thomas sold the car to Ken McBride, Seattle WA, who imported the car into the US.
Now sold to a new US owner
A race report is on file that shows the car entered as running a 5.7-liter capacity in the British Saloon Car Championship.
Alan Mann rebuilt the car for Pierpoint (BSCC Group 5, 1966-69), the car said to have had a 289 with dual quads and Weslake heads, But I think the the westlake heads were set up for 4 webers.
Front suspension is control arm and coil over as OEM, the rear suspension is Ford 9-inch with four link and watts link.
Discs brakes fitted all round.
Paul B
11-05-2017, 10:35 PM
But wait there's more!
This looks like the car that Graham Hill started the Monte Carlo rallye in. Note the race number and the license plate, but this was actually the media car for the magazine writers to drive and write about it.
47621
47620
And below is the car that Graham Hill finished the race in Note the race number license plate- different
47622
47619
The race number on the side of this car was a different placement to the first pic and the license plates are different.
The last 2 photos are of the same car that was pictured at the end of the MCR and went on to be the Piermont group 5 car and the car that Frank Gardner won the BSCC in 67 - Thanks to Ken for finding a piece of history to share and to Bruce302 for prompting it for his pic of the Piermont Falcon.
There was some talk that 2 falcons crashed at the MCR but all 8 that entered, all finished. I guess there could have been some back up cars?
Bruce302
11-06-2017, 05:12 AM
It looks like that car crashed, though not badly. It has 201 race number and on the Monte Carlo plate under the bumper, but the licence plate on the front of the bonnet is ZE 1045.
B
bmeeke
11-06-2017, 05:42 AM
Hi Paul, I run a '64 Falcon Rallye Sprint in Pre-65 historic touring cars in Perth, Western Australia. I did a lot of research (as you have done) back in 1989 when my car was first built. I collected a lot of material (papers and photos) on a visit to Ford at Dearborn, MI and from Lee Holman. I also collected a lot of original Monte Carlo material from Alan Mann on a visit to the UK; together with homologation papers from the RAC-MSA. My car is a full-on racer and built in accordance with the FIA homologation (#1250) with a CAMS regulatory overlay. I have all-over fibreglass panels; i.e. all hung panels and bumpers. I also have a full set of moulds if you ever need some assistance -- a bit late with that offer perhaps? Alan Mann gave me a lot of info in respect of the cars that were left after the 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye -- i.e. registration numbers, race numbers, VINs, etc. If I can ever be of assistance in respect of background information, don't hesitate to ask.
Paul B
11-06-2017, 08:27 AM
Hi Paul, I run a '64 Falcon Rallye Sprint in Pre-65 historic touring cars in Perth, Western Australia. I did a lot of research (as you have done) back in 1989 when my car was first built. I collected a lot of material (papers and photos) on a visit to Ford at Dearborn, MI and from Lee Holman. I also collected a lot of original Monte Carlo material from Alan Mann on a visit to the UK; together with homologation papers from the RAC-MSA. My car is a full-on racer and built in accordance with the FIA homologation (#1250) with a CAMS regulatory overlay. I have all-over fibreglass panels; i.e. all hung panels and bumpers. I also have a full set of moulds if you ever need some assistance -- a bit late with that offer perhaps? Alan Mann gave me a lot of info in respect of the cars that were left after the 1964 Monte Carlo Rallye -- i.e. registration numbers, race numbers, VINs, etc. If I can ever be of assistance in respect of background information, don't hesitate to ask.
Thanks for your post! I would be keen to see some pics of your car, you could post them on the "Falcon Sprint" thread, It would be great to see and hear about what you are doing in Perth! You can also Private Message me through this site. Do you have any videos of your car racing?
Also very kind offer to share info and that also goes for me. I am more than happy to helps and share, mainly to preserve the history for all to read and to keep it alive.
I am most interested in the 1964 engineering and design build of the cars. I am also particularly interested in Holman & Moody body/Chassis modifications.
Thanks for your offer of the Fiberglass, I am almost finished with that smelly toxic stuff, but very happy with the result.
Cheers
Paul
Paul B
11-06-2017, 08:38 AM
It looks like that car crashed, though not badly. It has 201 race number and on the Monte Carlo plate under the bumper, but the licence plate on the front of the bonnet is ZE 1045.
B
Hi Bruce,
The top photo the car license plate is ZE1050 This was the media car, the lower 2 photos with the car License plate ZE1045 was Graham hills car still surviving today in Group 5 form.
The race organisers wanted the Montecarlo Rally plates placed in the center front of the cars, this is why most of the cars had license plates reassigned to the front hoods.
See you on Saturday!
Cheers
P
bmeeke
11-06-2017, 09:22 AM
Hi Paul,
i tried sending you some photos, but the site requires a particular size (2000 x 2000) and mine are all different. I'm not much good at this blogging business! There are several of my in-car racing videos on YouTube under the category '1964 Falcon Rallye Sprint' -- let me know if you have trouble finding them?
My understanding is that all the performance mods to the Monte Carlo cars were done by H&M, then the cars were sent to the UK for Alan Mann to mod them for rallying. So, H&M did the W289 switch, T10 gearbox, Lincoln front spindles, KH big 4-spots and discs, Galaxie rear drums, 9" diff, 15" wheels, etc.
I'm happy to send you a copy of Alan Mann's notes of the status of all the cars after the Monte Carlo Rally if you can send me an email link -- mine is bmeeke@meekeconsulting.com.au
Its a large file size (7Mb) and I've got some other interesting stuff from my meetings with Alan Mann. I've also recently sent a lot of stuff to Mike Matune (a noted automotive historian and author) in the US. He is doing some work for Lee Holman at present and contacted me for some of the information I have collected.
Paul B
11-06-2017, 07:35 PM
Thanks very much Bill, Very keen! I have sent you and email
Cheers
Paul
Steve Holmes
11-06-2017, 07:53 PM
Hi Paul,
i tried sending you some photos, but the site requires a particular size (2000 x 2000) and mine are all different. I'm not much good at this blogging business! There are several of my in-car racing videos on YouTube under the category '1964 Falcon Rallye Sprint' -- let me know if you have trouble finding them?
My understanding is that all the performance mods to the Monte Carlo cars were done by H&M, then the cars were sent to the UK for Alan Mann to mod them for rallying. So, H&M did the W289 switch, T10 gearbox, Lincoln front spindles, KH big 4-spots and discs, Galaxie rear drums, 9" diff, 15" wheels, etc.
I'm happy to send you a copy of Alan Mann's notes of the status of all the cars after the Monte Carlo Rally if you can send me an email link -- mine is bmeeke@meekeconsulting.com.au
Its a large file size (7Mb) and I've got some other interesting stuff from my meetings with Alan Mann. I've also recently sent a lot of stuff to Mike Matune (a noted automotive historian and author) in the US. He is doing some work for Lee Holman at present and contacted me for some of the information I have collected.
Hi Bill, its great to have you on here. Thanks for posting. Please feel free to email me any photos that need resizing and uploading to the site. I can do them: theroaringseason@gmail.com
Paul B
11-08-2017, 07:02 AM
Milestone.... the left door is now finished fiberglass fabrication, very happy with that! This its the final prefit then I will prep it for paint.
Cleaning the mold release off the fiberglass is super important, I use Meths and dishwash liquid in warm water and some elbow grease.
Then Epoxy etch prime the surfaces, then I can continue with door gapping & paint prep.
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Very happy with the door closure, they close just as a steel door.
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The interior prefit and windows all fit and Polycarbonate windows fitted
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From here its on to the front Fenders which need some work but nothing like the doors,
Bruce302
11-08-2017, 07:18 AM
Nice work Paul, and that is an understatement.
B.
Spgeti
11-08-2017, 07:22 AM
Great work Paul.
Look forward to catch up at Manfeild.
Lots of us historic guys there so come and join in.
Cheers
Bruce D
Paul B
11-08-2017, 09:39 AM
Thanks very much Bruce & Bruce. See you on Saturday
1964 footage of Monte Carlo Rallye
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWrOQWUQXJU
Oldfart
11-08-2017, 03:25 PM
Are you keeping with that ground clearance Paul?
Paul B
11-08-2017, 08:40 PM
Hi Rhys,
Well that is a good question, on the Homologation #1250 it states 10 inches ground clearance but that was dated 4 November 1963. The cars were delivered some time later and Alan Mann made further rally modifications to the cars. I have a detailed article from July 1964 by David Phipps from Car and Driver (UK) and he made a comprehensive review of these cars, measured, recorded and published the as raced height at 8 inches. I am assuming this was at the door sill (rocker panel) measurement taken from the center of the car, which would fit with the cars dimensions.
He also reported the cars curb weight was 2850lbs (1293kg) this would have been with all fluids and they had 102ltr fuel tanks plus spare wheel/s etc.
The car tested a best 5.7sec 0 - 60MPH and did the 1/4 mile in 14.2seconds at 89 MPH, pretty impressive for the day. He also commented "Power to ground transmission was poor" and that the 4.51 ratio diff contributed to wheel spin in first gear in such proportion that the cars actual performance would probably not be worse with 3.5:1 diff.
The weight distribution was pretty good too - 53% front and 47% rear.
There is a great check result list after the test drive that I will post up at some point.
Cheers
khyndart in CA
11-08-2017, 08:54 PM
Paul,
Here are a couple of clips that feature the 1964 Falcon a bit more than that '64 Monte Carlo Rally footage shown previously.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3MvffkrSs0&feature=youtu.be
khyndart in CA
11-08-2017, 08:58 PM
# 2
Even though it says 1963 Falcon this is a 1964 Falcon in my book. Pity about the ending but hope you get to enjoy it overall.
Will we see you at Spa ?
Cheers
Ken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJkYDol6vW8&t=24s
khyndart in CA
11-08-2017, 09:03 PM
# 2
Even though it says 1963 Falcon this is a 1964 Falcon in my book. Pity about the ending but hope you get to enjoy it overall.
Bruce Dyer (Spgeti ) would also enjoy this, as I did seeing the classic Mini Coopers slide by !
Will we see you at Spa ?
Cheers
Ken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJkYDol6vW8&t=24s
Paul B
11-08-2017, 09:40 PM
Great clips Ken! thanks for posting them.
Spa is a fantastic auto course, I have been there once previously. I would love to take the Falcon there.
Spgeti, you will like Alfa racing at Spa about 1/2 way through.
Cheers
Spgeti
11-08-2017, 10:28 PM
They all great clips. Sad end to the “Coon” but some neat cars out on the track including a Marcos.
Love the Guilia sliding around the corners...
B
Paul B
11-20-2017, 06:07 AM
Now that the fiberglass doors are built & fitted I have moved on the the final part of the body work fitting the front fenders.
The front fenders were supplied as 1 piece but no rear inner fender support panel was supplied or fitted. As you can see in the picture below, this is a shot of the new fiber fender fitted to the car, you can see straight through to the door hinges, the fender on the left and the cowl/firewall on the right.
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The below is the steel fender inner panel that I have now taken a mold of and made new inner panels from structural fiberglass
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So now with the molds made I have made 2 new panels and waiting for them to cure
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The next pic'is that of the fender fitted but still needing the rear inner panel fitted and gapping
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More to come soon when its all fitted
Paul B
11-20-2017, 08:41 PM
Here is a great video of a Holman Moody "FE" 427 Mustang Racing at Portland Historic Races.
Such a cool sound, looks like he is shifting at 6800-7200
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yU26_YNK9vA
khyndart in CA
11-21-2017, 10:34 PM
Paul,
You may have seen these two Hemmings articles but I wanted to share them just in case and the photos are very interesting.
https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/ford/falcon-sprint/1960079.html
https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/04/27/monte-carlo-class-winning-ford-falcon-to-cross-the-block-at-monaco-auction/
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Cheers,
Ken H
Paul B
11-22-2017, 04:53 AM
Hi Ken, Thanks for yet another great post, That is one of the best shots of #49 the Bo Ljungfeldt car (I have it on my Tee shirt). I believe it won every leg (or nearly) of the MCR but due to the handicap given for the Falcons the Mini won overall, Not withstanding Paddy Hopkirk, in the Mini did an outstanding job and most impressive drive.
I did not know that car (in the attached link) was up for sale again, previously it was up for sale and some controversy around its chassis number. Hopefully it was sorted out. #49 car did go back to Sweden after the Rally ended in 1964, not sure after that.
There are only about 3 surviving MCR cars that I have heard of. There could be more stashed away waiting to be found.
Its always amazing what you manage to find under stones, garage floors, archives or wherever you find these great gems.
Cheers from Kiwi land!
Paul B
11-24-2017, 06:58 PM
Paul,
I posted these photos on the other Falcon thread.
They show an Alan Mann 1964 Falcon Monte Carlo Rallye car. License number ZE1051
47521
47522
47523
(I really enjoy your inputs and details of your work. You are a true craftsman indeed )
Ken H
Hi Ken,
These are great pics (pg 8 post #160), I believe of when Alan Mann was testing the cars prior to the Monte Carlo Rallye
This car was #141 driven by Peter Harper and John Sprinzel
First pic is a great shot, tossing it into the corner!
khyndart in CA
11-25-2017, 08:09 AM
Paul,
This Ford Falcon Club site might have some useful information and contacts for you.
http://www.falconclub.com/1964-2/
This is a great shot of Terry Sanger trying very hard in his 64 Falcon # 102 at the old Crystal Palace circuit which was close to where I used to live in Croydon. 1972 -73. The track had sadly closed in 1971 and I missed out on what must been a marvelous place to enjoy the racing.
47997
(Ken H)
Paul B
11-27-2017, 09:21 AM
Thanks Ken, Great shot!
Its quite a common sight seeing these Falcons taking on an angular state while racing, Similar thing at Goodwood also.
(almost looks like an early drift event!)
These Falcons would have been ex Monte Carlo fleet, raced during the 1965 - 1969 period, raced by:
Alan Mann racing - Frank Gardener
Mathwall Engineering
Dennis Leech
Malcolm Gartlan Racing
Roy Pierpoint
Terry Sanger
Malcolm Gartlan Racing
Paul B
11-28-2017, 06:37 AM
On the home straight now with the panel work. The front fenders are fitted with the new fiberglass inner panels I fabricated earlier and a nice solid, really good fit. Also fitted the OEM side trim brightwork
48026
I've just got some minor gapping to do on the fenders and doors and its done. Wahoo!!
48027
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December and January will be paint prepping,in for primer and another sand then planning to go to paint later in the year.
Colours will be Wimbledon White with Guardsman blue side stripe ( same as the G Hill car #201 of course)
Bruce302
11-28-2017, 07:34 AM
Looks fantastic Paul, That is a ton of work, but the results are well worth it.
Very nice.
B.
Paul B
11-29-2017, 04:15 AM
Thanks Bruce.
Now this is not a Falcon
But its 1964 and demonstrates what the experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane (sport coupe model) that was at Alan Mann racing in 64 was all about. This car was one of 3 recreations re-made by Holman Moody In 2003. 2 cars had FIA status but I believe they changed the cars around and this was pulled by FIA. The engine was a 427 big block FE. Just listen to that big block sound... music to my ears!
The experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane (sport coupe model) car is not to be confused with the 1964 Fairlane 427 Thunderbolt, which was a 2 door post model and was built only for drag racing.
The Experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane 2 door Sport Coupe model with a 427 was a completely different project as Ford wanted to transition out of full chassis Galaxies for NASCAR. Holman Moody built the 1964 experimental NASCAR 427 Sport coupe Fairlanes in secret and 1 was shipped to UK, Alan Mann racing for testing, I believe it was very successful. Later Alan Mann Racing offered up a number of Ford race cars including this car for sale. It was never seen again. I believe it went back to USA.
It was Fireball Roberts who raced such a car in USA at The 1964 DAYTONA CONTINENTAL MEETING This was partly International, for the World Championship of Makes (16.02.1964).
The FORD Fairlane was in fact entered in the AMERICAN CHALLENGE CUP race and this is not recognised as an FIA International Competition, it took place as an opening race on the 15.02.1964. He came 2nd in this race
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WRgybAyc6Y
kiwi285
11-29-2017, 04:53 AM
Thanks Bruce.
Now this is not a Falcon but its 1964 and demonstrates what the experimental 1964 Fairlane that was at Alan Mann racing in 64 was all about. This car was one of 2 recreations made by Holman Moody I think around 2003, The engine was a 427 big block FE. Just listen to that big block sound... music to my ears!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WRgybAyc6Y
Fantastic build Paul - you are a true craftsman. It has been quite an experience to see the way you have gone about each stage and the workmanship that you have exhibited. A real example of how a car should be put together for this class and anyone who wants to complain about having to do some small items should look your way.
Love the clip of the Fairlane in action.
Bruce302
11-29-2017, 08:49 AM
Thanks Bruce.
Now this is not a Falcon but its 1964 and demonstrates what the experimental 1964 Fairlane that was at Alan Mann racing in 64 was all about. This car was one of 2 recreations made by Holman Moody I think around 2003, The engine was a 427 big block FE. Just listen to that big block sound... music to my ears!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WRgybAyc6Y
Oh to drive "the green hell" in a car like that. Lets do it.
Paul B
11-29-2017, 09:57 AM
Oh to drive "the green hell" in a car like that. Lets do it.
I could watch that all day! that Big block 427 Fairlane machine rocks my world! (post #193)
Lets bucket list the Nordschleife!
Total coolness
Paul B
11-29-2017, 10:10 AM
Fantastic build Paul - you are a true craftsman. It has been quite an experience to see the way you have gone about each stage and the workmanship that you have exhibited. A real example of how a car should be put together for this class and anyone who wants to complain about having to do some small items should look your way.
Love the clip of the Fairlane in action.
Thanks very much for your kind words. Like I have said to a couple of people. Some cars just cooperate really well, this car is awesome its has been really cooperative!
All the good stuff will be coming soon - Brake fitment, cooling, Suspension & set up, engine build, gearbox, Ratios - final gearing, wheels & tyres.
Its all good fun... And that's why we do it.
Bruce302
11-29-2017, 06:02 PM
I could watch that all day! that Big block 427 Fairlane machine rocks my world! (post #193)
Lets bucket list the Nordschleife!
Total coolness
You bring the car, i'll bring the coke and hookers....
Spgeti
11-29-2017, 06:14 PM
You bring the car, i'll bring the coke and hookers....
Your showing your age there Bruce....book me a seat !
Bruce302
11-29-2017, 06:38 PM
Your showing your age there Bruce....book me a seat !
sounds like we have the makings of a looong boys weekend away
Paul B
11-29-2017, 07:26 PM
It might take me 2-3 years to build the car!
John McKechnie
11-29-2017, 07:51 PM
Since I am bringing a Falcon for you on the 10th Bruce, can I have the coke and hookers................
Paul B
11-29-2017, 08:38 PM
The Monte Carlo cars came with twin fuel tanks the main tank which was about 60 liters and a auxiliary tank around 42 liters, mounted in the boot directly above the diff.
This is a picture of a 1963 Monte carlo car. I have seen a picture of a 1964 they had a round tank But I have since misplaced it - Check out the ballast in the boot!
48068
This system had a Stewart Warner Fuel pump that pumped fuel from the main tank
48069
I have a round 42 liter tank coming for the car
Spgeti
11-29-2017, 09:45 PM
So you need a spade and rope as well to help get out of the kitty litter....?
Spgeti
11-29-2017, 09:56 PM
Since I am bringing a Falcon for you on the 10th Bruce, can I have the coke and hookers................
You will have to get in line...!
Paul B
11-30-2017, 01:47 AM
So you need a spade and rope as well to help get out of the kitty litter....?
And the winch too!!, plus 2 spare wheels to change my tyres on the side of the track
Bruce302
11-30-2017, 05:30 AM
Since I am bringing a Falcon for you on the 10th Bruce, can I have the coke and hookers................
If you share....
John McKechnie
11-30-2017, 07:42 AM
Its not as if I am bringing a Chevvy............
Paul B
12-04-2017, 04:37 AM
Well Christmas comes early in our house, (just about all year round!) the first of the xmas pressies are here.
1 set of Koni classic shocks
48122
These are the same fit as mustang but the front shock top mount is pressed out and is replaced with a bolt & nut. These are correct for the 1964 Monte Carlo Falcon
These go with heavy duty front and rear springs, which are still a work in progress, Front springs should arrive in January.
Paul B
12-04-2017, 10:44 AM
Great clip from 1969 NASCAR
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78q5hnkK9fg
Bruce302
12-04-2017, 05:54 PM
Well Christmas comes early in our house, (just about all year round!) the first of the xmas pressies are here.
1 set of Koni classic shocks
48122
These are the same fit as mustang but the front shock top mount is pressed out and is replaced with a bolt & nut. These are correct for the 1964 Monte Carlo Falcon
These go with heavy duty front and rear springs, which are still a work in progress, Front springs should arrive in January.
Those are very nice, mine are ready for paint and new 'water slide' decals.
Paul B
12-13-2017, 08:36 AM
Mr fussy strikes again!
I was not happy with the structure of the front fenders, I just had to do it right. So they have now been reinforced with a flexible structural fiberglass mesh. This has maintained a good race weight but increased the flexible strength of the fender significantly.
This is a shot from the inside
48380
48381
So now this has all been correctly fitted up and 80% of the door and front fender gapping is complete
48382
Bruce302
12-13-2017, 09:26 AM
What weight are they Paul ? They look super light weight.
B
Steve Holmes
12-13-2017, 09:50 AM
Well Christmas comes early in our house, (just about all year round!) the first of the xmas pressies are here.
1 set of Koni classic shocks
48122
These are the same fit as mustang but the front shock top mount is pressed out and is replaced with a bolt & nut. These are correct for the 1964 Monte Carlo Falcon
These go with heavy duty front and rear springs, which are still a work in progress, Front springs should arrive in January.
Wow, where did you find these?
Paul B
12-13-2017, 10:14 AM
Hi Steve,
These are still available as a brand new item, and manufactured (in Holland) to the same specification as they were.
They come with 3 period stickers, Including the classic sticker, as shown. Not cheap, once you pay freight, land them & GST
I needed these as they are correct for the Rally Sprint
https://konimarket.com/products/1968-1969-chevrolet-camaro-with-multi-leaf-spring-koni-classic-shock-rear-573
Or your specialist GM aftermarket supplier may have them
Paul B
12-13-2017, 10:20 AM
What weight are they Paul ? They look super light weight.
B
The steel fenders are 22 lb and the fiber are 11.5lb,with the extra fiberglass structure added and had to make the new reinforcing panel. Paint preparation with polyester filler & paint on the fenders which may add another 1lb
khyndart in CA
12-14-2017, 10:50 PM
Paul,
When I came to work today I saw this fine 1964 Falcon 260 Auto Station Wagon sitting in the parking lot. Although the roof has a slight rust issue I thought you could have something like this as your tow / support vehicle. What do you think ?
48401
48402
(Ken H)
Paul B
12-15-2017, 06:30 AM
That's cool Ken, Thanks for posting it.
Funny, I have been looking at a few Falcon woody wagons lately. It looks fairly rust free apart from the roof, as you mentioned.
It looks like it has a set of early American racing rims fitted. Guess it has a 2 speed auto.
Is it for sale?
Cheers
Paul
Paul B
12-15-2017, 08:39 PM
Now here is some real racing, back in the day when saloon cars were actual cars. Have a look at the track! Yes Early Bathust
https://www.facebook.com/ClassicDriv...type=3&theater
Paul B
12-16-2017, 10:20 PM
The doors and fenders are all fitted up now and the left side doors and fenders are all gapped, I am just finishing the right side fender and door gapping. Doors, fenders & hood fitment always take longer than you think and fiberglass panels nearly always have so much deflection that they don't fit in certain places. Fitting the door skins like I have done earlier (post #151) and the front fender to cowl strip (post #184 & #212) on the car ensures the best fit.
when the car is painted there will be some deflection showing on some panels in the form of some low spots particularly in the hood and the trunk lid I am doing the best job on the fenders and doors so that should be minimal, but still visible... if you look for it. That is how the "period" look of the car will be and it would have been back in the day. So that's how it will be built, complete with the leather strap on the front hood.
48483
48484
48485
48486
48481
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kiwi285
12-16-2017, 10:32 PM
Mate that is amazing and I am just loving the build and being able to keep up with what is happening.
I am doing the same thing on the Proboards website for the restoration of the second Grumman Avenger WW II RNZAF bomber at Classic Flyers in Tauranga. Here is the link to the thread if anyone is interested.
http://rnzaf.proboards.com/thread/25553/grumman-avenger-nz2539-classic-flyers
You are a tradesman par excellence. Keep up the great work Paul.
Spgeti
12-16-2017, 10:48 PM
Outside at last and enjoying the sunshine. Great work Paul and look forward to the paint job being done.
Cheers
Bruce
Paul B
12-17-2017, 12:17 AM
Mate that is amazing and I am just loving the build and being able to keep up with what is happening.
I am doing the same thing on the Proboards website for the restoration of the second Grumman Avenger WW II RNZAF bomber at Classic Flyers in Tauranga. Here is the link to the thread if anyone is interested.
http://rnzaf.proboards.com/thread/25553/grumman-avenger-nz2539-classic-flyers
You are a tradesman par excellence. Keep up the great work Paul.
Hi Mike, that is awesome! What a cool project. I just love anything old with wheels and engines. I will have a really good read of that.
I will be up your way in the new year, would be keen to have a gander.
Cheers
kiwi285
12-17-2017, 08:29 AM
Give me a call and I would be happy to show you over and around. I will PM you.
Paul B
12-18-2017, 08:51 AM
There may be a few of you that may have been connected with the Wellington Car Club. They will be celebrating their 75th year as a club in Motorsport! I believe they may be one of the oldest car club in New Zealand.
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Steve Holmes
12-18-2017, 05:29 PM
Hi Mike, that is awesome! What a cool project. I just love anything old with wheels and engines. I will have a really good read of that.
I will be up your way in the new year, would be keen to have a gander.
Cheers
Our young Mike Feisst is a very talented boy.
kiwi285
12-20-2017, 06:31 PM
Our young Mike Feisst is a very talented boy.
Have just found this now - I thoroughly enjoy what I do but hey I can't interview petrolheads and write such fantastic books about them. Keep up the great work.
kiwi285
12-20-2017, 06:37 PM
As we are fast approaching years end I would like to wish everyone on here a great festive season and trust that 2018 is kind to you and your families. Have a great one and take the time to smell the roses.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4645/38471534094_b281d9f68d_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21BAEKY)cartoon 7 (https://flic.kr/p/21BAEKY) by Mike Feisst (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150605843@N06/), on Flickr
Paul B
12-20-2017, 08:48 PM
Ha ha, Classic Mike !! I couldn't agree more.
We do these things, not because we have to, nor because we can, but because we want to.
Please everyone enjoy the festive season the EASY way
Cheers to all
P
khyndart in CA
12-29-2017, 12:08 AM
Paul,
I found this article in a Feb. 1993 Thoroughbred and Classic Cars magazine and thought you might be interested if you have not seen this already. (You may have to enlarge the images to read it as it is hard to get it down to the 185 kb )
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To be continued.
khyndart in CA
12-29-2017, 12:13 AM
Falcon article continued.
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Happy New Year Paul.
I look forward to meeting you in 3 weeks at Taupo.
Ken H.
(If you would like this magazine I may be able to sneak it out to you. ok ? )
kiwi285
12-29-2017, 03:05 AM
I look forward to meeting you in 3 weeks at Taupo.
Ken H.
Hi Ken,
I have booked to stay the weekend at taupo so hopefully I might be able to catch up with you as well.
Mike F
Paul B
01-08-2018, 11:54 AM
Hi Ken,
What a great build, Thanks very much for posting it. If you have room in your case, very gratefully received!
Very keen to meet at Taupo!
Cheers & kindest regards
Paul
Paul B
01-09-2018, 08:17 AM
I have received the 42ltr auxiliary tank and prefitted that in the same location as original. The Monte Carlo cars had twin tanks with a total of 102ltrs of fuel capacity and an electric Stewart Warner fuel pump to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. the standard Ford mechanical fuel pump was used to feed the carbs.
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This tank will be used as the fuel cell after some mods
Below was the set up on the 1963 Falcons, The 64s were a little different but still twin tank
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Steve Holmes
01-09-2018, 10:22 AM
Looks great Paul. Will the auxiliary tank be functional?
Paul B
01-09-2018, 07:45 PM
Hi Steve,
The plan is to build it exactly the same as 1964, but the OEM fuel tank is not up to a new Fuel cell compliance so the OEM tank is there for show, but does also provide structural support to the rear body.
The auxiliary tank will be used as the race fuel cell, I only hope it will be big enough as its only 42 ltrs. I will need to add some baffles inside for the fuel pick up and fuel foam along with a tank breather.
I will try and get an electric stewart warner fuel pump (another rare part) and plumb it in too
Steve Holmes
01-09-2018, 08:04 PM
Hi Steve,
The plan is to build it exactly the same as 1964, but the OEM fuel tank is not up to a new Fuel cell compliance so the OEM tank is there for show, but does also provide structural support to the rear body.
The auxiliary tank will be used as the race fuel cell, I only hope it will be big enough as its only 42 ltrs. I will need to add some baffles inside for the fuel pick up and fuel foam along with a tank breather.
I will try and get an electric stewart warner fuel pump (another rare part) and plumb it in too
That was going to be my next question Paul, whether it's up to compliance standards. But you answered that for me.
I think that's a great idea just having it there fo show. You should create an information board to display at race events showing info and photos of the original cars just so people can see how much effort you've made to get all the details correct.
khyndart in CA
01-09-2018, 11:01 PM
Paul,
I was just able to rescue that "Classic Cars"magazine from the storage locker at work as the heavy rains here had caused a leak right next to it !
My wife will be glad to see my collection go down even if by one !
We have lived at our home since 1979 and I don't think we will ever leave now as how can one part with a "California Emission Controls Manual for a 1977 Fiat X-19" ?
I hope you have a name tag on or else I may ignore you although John McKechnie or Bruce Thompson might point you to my whereabouts.
Cheers,
Ken H
John McKechnie
01-09-2018, 11:22 PM
As fellow Anglia drivers, you will recognize each other.
Paul B
01-09-2018, 11:34 PM
That was going to be my next question Paul, whether it's up to compliance standards. But you answered that for me.
I think that's a great idea just having it there fo show. You should create an information board to display at race events showing info and photos of the original cars just so people can see how much effort you've made to get all the details correct.
That is a good idea Steve, I will put some thought into it. Maybe build it around the FIA #1250 doc as a point of interest also.
Paul B
01-09-2018, 11:44 PM
Paul,
I was just able to rescue that "Classic Cars"magazine from the storage locker at work as the heavy rains here had caused a leak right next to it !
My wife will be glad to see my collection go down even if by one !
We have lived at our home since 1979 and I don't think we will ever leave now as how can one part with a "California Emission Controls Manual for a 1977 Fiat X-19" ?
I hope you have a name tag on or else I may ignore you although John McKechnie or Bruce Thompson might point you to my whereabouts.
Cheers,
Ken H
Thanks very much Ken, very much appreciated!
Completely understand, car manuals/literature are an important source of information and form an important part of our life education, culture and knowledge and parting with these things is likened to removing a limb! Keep collecting, retain all limbs!
I will be at the GP and very keen to meet to have a yak. Both John & Bruce have my mobile number. Look for the hair folicly challenged one with a grin on his face. I will keep an eye out for you too.
Cheers
P
Paul B
01-10-2018, 12:18 AM
As fellow Anglia drivers, you will recognize each other.
You bet! Angleboxes rule.
This was my old Anglia from 1976, it had escort running gear, widened rims with Cavalino tyres, I flared the rear guards out (to match my flared jeans. Don't look too hard, it was my first go at panel work!). it was a quick car... for the day.. and what it was then. I painted it red
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And prior to painting - Thats me, with hair, doing lawn gymkhana.
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Steve Holmes
01-10-2018, 07:28 AM
Paul,
I found this article in a Feb. 1993 Thoroughbred and Classic Cars magazine and thought you might be interested if you have not seen this already. (You may have to enlarge the images to read it as it is hard to get it down to the 185 kb )
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48797
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To be continued.
I too have a copy of that article. Bought the magazine while living in London. My magazine collection got so big while I was there that I had to cut out all the articles I wanted to keep and throw away the rest of the magazine. Otherwise I couldn't keep the article.
Paul B
01-10-2018, 08:40 AM
This is a great clip of 1965 Riverside 500 stock car race.
Junior Johnson, Parnelli Jones, Dan Gurney, Fred Lorenzen, AJ Foyt etc
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMt0LhpJGlE
Paul B
01-25-2018, 11:21 PM
Thanks Bruce.
Now this is not a Falcon
But its 1964 and demonstrates what the experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane (sport coupe model) that was at Alan Mann racing in 64 was all about. This car was one of 3 recreations re-made by Holman Moody In 2003. 2 cars had FIA status but I believe they changed the cars around and this was pulled by FIA. The engine was a 427 big block FE. Just listen to that big block sound... music to my ears!
The experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane (sport coupe model) car is not to be confused with the 1964 Fairlane 427 Thunderbolt, which was a 2 door post model and was built only for drag racing.
The Experimental NASCAR 1964 Fairlane 2 door Sport Coupe model with a 427 was a completely different project as Ford wanted to transition out of full chassis Galaxies for NASCAR. Holman Moody built the 1964 experimental NASCAR 427 Sport coupe Fairlanes in secret and 1 was shipped to UK, Alan Mann racing for testing, I believe it was very successful. Later Alan Mann Racing offered up a number of Ford race cars including this car for sale. It was never seen again. I believe it went back to USA.
It was Fireball Roberts who raced such a car in USA at The 1964 DAYTONA CONTINENTAL MEETING This was partly International, for the World Championship of Makes (16.02.1964).
The FORD Fairlane was in fact entered in the AMERICAN CHALLENGE CUP race and this is not recognised as an FIA International Competition, it took place as an opening race on the 15.02.1964. He came 2nd in this race
Here we have The 1964 DAYTONA CONTINENTAL MEETING, This was partly International, for the World Championship of Makes (16.02.1964). and was an FIA race
The FORD Fairlane NASCAR H-M (White, No 96) was entered in the AMERICAN CHALLENGE CUP race and it is not clear if this race was also recognised as an FIA Competition. This was the opening race on the 15.02.1964. (the white car number 97 was a Falcon Sprint, believed to be the 15th H-M car as 14 went to Alan Mann)
https://youtu.be/7oh2whqKOaI
See post #193 for the video footage of the Holman Moody re-creation of this fantastic machine
Also check out the rest of the field racing!
Paul B
02-09-2018, 06:41 PM
Last week I imported some more parts for the Rallye Sprint and I was lucky enough to find a very rare OEM steel floor hump that is used in the 4 speed manual shift model cars only. But (there's always a but) it had some rust and an extra bit cut out of the top and a patch panel welded on top.
You can see where the bottom had rusted away (The white pattern shows where the steel should be) and above that it was thin and full of pin holes
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So off came the patch plate that was tack welded to the top
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They originally had an offset oval hole and 2/3s of that was left so I used that as a marker, I made a new steel panel and started to tack it in
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Then finished the weld, ground it back and plenished it. Just need to cut out the rest of the oval.
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The base area was a little more complex as it had curved returns upwards and side ways so careful stretching of the steel was required to fabricate the new piece the same as original, I really like to make this kind of stuff, It was easier to make it in 2 pieces, so I cut out the first piece of rust.
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I welded in the first new piece that I fabricated. Then I cut out the last piece of rust and fitted up the second new piece I fabricated and welded that in also.
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Just have to grind the welds down and plenish the surface. A bit of hammer & dolly work to straighten it all out, then, clean, prime & paint.
It was a full days work. Making, fitting, welding & preparing for paint, the bottom new panels slowed me down.
The finished result on post #251.
Bruce302
02-09-2018, 06:46 PM
Nice work Paul, I love seeing the details.
It's easy to forget the parts than may be hidden later or will only be appreciated by the few that know.
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Spgeti
02-09-2018, 07:21 PM
Great work Paul. A worthwhile find.
Paul B
02-11-2018, 12:36 AM
Thanks Guys,
Its always more satisfying restoring the original parts... where possible. You are very right Bruce, once all the rust repairs are done and a nice shiny coat of paint is on top its very hard for some to understand the effort put in bringing these old machines back to life.
kiwi285
02-12-2018, 11:48 PM
I really appreciate seeing these photos and hearing about all the background work that you put into these items. I wonder how many others would have gone to this much trouble to get the housing totally correct. Especially when an off the shelf ali items might well have fitted and would have been difficult to see once the interior was painted.
Fantastic work sir.
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